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5 September 2016 at 10:29 pm #139939
Ed,
I’ve used the satin finish every time. You still have to use the original formula as your 3 undercoats (or however many you want), then top coat with satin.
Again, I’ve always brushed it on, but I do 3 coats of original with 2 coats of satin. I never felt the need to do anything further.
I hope you’ve been well since class.
David
5 September 2016 at 2:19 am #139921Ed,
I’ve used Waterlox a few times. I wanted to try it because it’s made here in Cleveland and I really try to support local when possible. The only drawback to Waterlox is the long dry time, whether between coats or as a final coat. I’ve used it on tabletops, where I was able to brush the coats, and got wonderful results. Brushing is recommended so you build millage quicker, and in fewer coats than wiping. In your case, you will have mostly vertical surfaces, so wiping is probably your best choice. I think you’re right on track there.
It may take 6-8, or even 10 coats to get the same millage as brushing, but you’ve got limited options.
One bit of advise I can give for speeding up the curing is the use of a fan and fresh air. Having a fan alone won’t help; you need to have fresh air coming in too. The molecular change that happens during curing is a cross link between the varnish and oxygen. That cross linking is what drys the finish. I suggest having the fan PULL fresh air across the project instead of blowing it across. You’ll be a lot less likely to blow dust etc. into a wet finish. Don’t ask me how I know this, just trust me when I say it’s not an easy problem to fix.
Good luck.
David
27 May 2015 at 1:57 am #127334Have you tried a scraper? A #80 will probably fix that in a few swipes.
18 February 2015 at 1:07 am #124791I would suggest a few drops of 3-1 or other light machine oil on the rivet, then place it somewhere warm to let the oil soak in overnight or longer. If it still won’t break free, put another application of oil and follow up with LIGHT pressure for 30 seconds, a few times. Do not try to force it, but the light pressure will create heat inside the threads, drawing in the oil.
When it breaks free, you can use a center punch and hammer on an anvil to peen the rivet tighter. If you don’t have an anvil, put a second hammer face up in your vise and use it as an anvil.
29 December 2014 at 9:42 pm #122789Darrin, I agree fully with George; orient the boards for the best appearance. If you plane the boards smooth before gluing (while you can flip however you need) and are carful with your glue up, a #80 cabinet scraper will handle ANY planing that needs to occur after glue up.
18 August 2014 at 6:47 pm #61421I bought the DMT continuous plates, 3″ x 10″ if I recall correctly. I used a piece of pine for the base and cut my recesses 3/16″ deep. This holds the stones tight, without the need for glue. Pop them out when you want. Go to Paul’s blog and search for sharpening plate holder. He gave dimensions and instructions 1-1/2 years ago.
30 July 2014 at 11:54 pm #59915Another problem that can cause a bit to stall is incorrect sharpening. If the exterior of the spur is sharpened, it will become a smaller diameter than the rest of the shaft. If a previous owner did this several times, the whole of the bit cannot enter the smaller hole created by the spurs.
24 June 2014 at 9:24 pm #58778Look at the video Mihai suggested. Since you’re a WMC member, you can view the full length version in the video library, under “Tools/Techniques.” The video is called “Stock Preparation.” Paul always gets a great edge because he has 50 years experience, using this method. You will need to practice it, and check your progress often with an accurate combination square.
I can attest to this method. I took a class with Paul last year, and by the end, it was second nature.
31 March 2014 at 11:27 pm #43890They look like what my great-grandfather called whiskey sticks. The real old levels were filled with alcohol to prevent freezing. I don’t know if was safe to drink or not, but some of the old time carpenters I work with still call them that.
31 March 2014 at 11:22 pm #43843My first workbench had the vise let into the bench top, following the same recommendations you spoke of; better clamping etc. It worked great, but I had nothing to compare it to, so I didn’t know what I was missing. After spending a month with Paul last summer, on a 38″ bench, with the vise out front of the bench top, I will never go back.
Clamping long boards it not a problem. Make a bench hook type spacer the same thickness your vise is off the top. When you need to clamp something long, slip in it place.
I like being able to get my fingers around the piece I’m clamping in the vise; something that can not be done when the rear jaw is let in.
12 July 2013 at 12:18 am #14680Hey George,
Here is a technique helper… Take a look at the coffee table episode 1, around 22:20. He shows a jig he uses to chop a mortise that is a nominal thickness piece of hardwood, faced with a smaller size piece the same thickness as the mortise shoulders. You clamp that and your piece in the vise, and use your chisel against the jig. It keeps the mortise wall dead square to the shoulder. He uses it in episode 2 to chop the leg mortises.
I’m in a month long class with Paul right now, and used that jig all day to chop mortises. They are dead square, dead accurate, and very fast. Any of the methods show in episode 5 to cut and trim your tennons will work. I especially like to split the tennon and dial in with the router.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.5 June 2013 at 8:59 pm #13082I just measured mine and they appear to be true imperial. This is what I bought…
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=67707&cat=1,41504
I got the set for $42.50.
5 June 2013 at 8:01 pm #13076I have really enjoyed using the Narex chisels. I purchased them from Lee Valley, after being able to try Paul’s at the Woodworking Show in Columbus, OH. Lee Valley was set up at the opposite end, and they offered free shipping on any show order. The price was very good, I think about $45 (USD) for the set of 4. I got the 1/4″, 1/2″, 3/4″ and 1″ bevel edge chisels, as well as the 1/2″ skews (R &L), and a 1/4″ mortise chisel.
I’ve followed Paul’s technique for cutting mortises with bevel edge chisels, but I’m afraid of breaking the 1/4″ bevel. That is the only mortise size I bought.
I needed about 30 min total to flatten all of the 7 backs. They hold an edge well, and of course, thanks to our Master’s teachings, can be sharpened very quickly.
All in all, I am very happy with them. The handles did fit me well out of the box, but I have done some very minor shaping as I used them more.
I paid less for all 7 of these chisels than a lot of the self-proclaimed experts and gurus advocate spending on 1 chisel. I had the some loaner chisels for about 3 months, to try before buying these; a Lie Nielsen, and Lee Valley PMV11, a Blue Spruce, and a Barr. The LN and LV were, in my opinion, no better than what I bought. The Blue Spruce is very nicely finished, but again, not that much better performing. The exception was the Barr chisel.
The Barr chisel is hand forged, which makes for a far superior steel than any cast piece can ever hope to achieve. The handle is nicely finished and fits me well. They are a bit pricey, but I think worth the investment in the long run. The Barr chisels will be a lifetime investment, sought out in the future as much as our vintage tools are now.
Paul mentioned these tools recently, in a post about the heavy timber framing workshop at Maplewood. It can be found here http://paulsellers.com/2013/05/getting-ready-for-tomorrows-two-day-discovering-woodworking-class/
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