1. Hi there,
      draw boring from my point of view does not work properly because you have to pull the joint tight into two directions at the same time. Sorry, can’t explain it better then that.
      Pinning has at least a decorative aspect. I think with modern glues there is no necessity to add strength to the joint. I strongly don’t believe that you will pull it apart once glued up.

      Just my thoughts.


    1. If it concerned me, using a digital caliper I would measure the width of the mortise before and after joining it to the tenon. If the joint is significantly wider, this would indicate the mortise is spreading due to some extra material. I would also do the before measurement just below where the mortise starts to ensure the reading isn’t biased by any relaxation of the wood (as Paul points out can happen). My 2 cents.

  1. Great timing Paul. I have a bunch of these in my next project. I think I’ll leave my guide longer though so that I can clamp the guide and workpiece in the vice below the joint. That wedge looks effective, but fussy.

  2. I just finished a set of cabinet doors using all bridle joints for skill building. And it worked – I can curse much better now than before the project! Wish this video had come out a few weeks ago. Thanks for the great tips.

  3. awesome video, thank you for sharing years of knowledge and expertise it is very much appreciated, i know as a trades person of another trade some people hold onto ideas like gold and will not share only to have them lost and gone forever, i can watch you for many hours absorbing as much as i can lol thank you again 🙂

  4. Bravo! I feel as though I have watched a command performance by a master. Which indeed I have. I so enjoy the calm competence and the encouragement that we can all do as well with a little care and attention. Learning to focus is the first skill to master, and perhaps the hardest.

  5. At school, I remember one of our first projects was to make a simple frame using a bridle, mortise and tenon, lap and a lapped dovetail joints. The frame was to hold your certificate at the end of the course. A great exercise to learn accuracy and techniques. If only you and YouTube had been around then, I’d have probably scored a higher mark. All the best.

    1. Mostly it is to do with the point of leverage. If the chiseling for removal of waste relies on chopping then as you go deeper it is advantageous to turn the chisel around to gain advantage vie the heel of the bevel which becomes the fulcrum point to lever against.

  6. Love it. Really like these types of videos you do. I personally like this joint visually for the contrasting grain direction. When done well they can be as interesting as a fine through dovetail in my opinion. I’ll be practicing this method a lot. I’ve only attempted this joint once and it was miserable. THANK YOU for sharing this and all the bonus tips as you were working. It gives me hope.

  7. Great video. I’ve been trying these joints and have until now been trying to get the saw cuts as close to the line as possible. I had previously tried to use a similar technique using the guide, with little succes. Now I know why: I didn’t use a wedge so the guide wasn’t working as it should. Thank you!

  8. Great video! Thank you. Quick question: Is it acceptable to glue a bridle joint? My concern is that gluing won’t allow the wood to expand if needed. My understanding is that cross grain gluing is generally a bad idea. Is this true? Thank you!

    1. It is normal is to glue a bridle joint unless you want to be able to dismantle the piece. Paul said that on joints of this size, expansion and contraction is immaterial. So cross grain gluing is only a bad idea on larger pieces.
      Best, Phil

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