Cam Clamp – Episode 2

Cam Clamp 2

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Paul cuts the mortise in the moving part to receive the bar, after drilling the holes to receive the roll pins. Once the mortise is cut, the roll pins are inserted and cut flush with the surface. They help to reinforce the pivotal pressure points.

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30 Comments

  1. bobeaston on 4 March 2016 at 5:02 pm

    Wonderful. Thanks!

    We won´t be disappointed if part 3 shows up real soon. 🙂

  2. António on 4 March 2016 at 5:16 pm

    Thanks guys!
    As always a great and simple way to do it!

  3. billstennett on 4 March 2016 at 7:44 pm

    Do you think the mortising would work with 1/8″ bevel edged chisel? That’s the only 1/8 I have but it seems like it would be too fragile.

    • bobeaston on 4 March 2016 at 8:10 pm

      Paul has used standard bench chisels in other lessons, and they worked just fine. Take smaller bites and you’ll probably be OK.

  4. dpawson on 5 March 2016 at 8:37 am

    Pleasure watching it come together Paul, thanks.
    How about leaving up a picture of your ‘plan’ (sketch) to get the measurements?

  5. James Lemaster on 5 March 2016 at 10:53 am

    Paul it is nice to see someone so dedicated and professional in there craft. Love your work Paul’

  6. FORREST BONNER on 5 March 2016 at 4:36 pm

    Always a pleasure watching your craftsmanship! You mentioned in Episode 2 that the mortising chisel does not have a bevel as you put on bench chisels. You have probably in some class that I missed said why that is; so I ask why no bevel on a mortising chisel?

    • Craig on 5 March 2016 at 11:05 pm

      Forrest,
      Paul’s comment was about the length of the bevel on the mortise chisel he’s using being longer than that on a bevel edge bench chisel and thus applies more pressure when levering. They both have a bevel but the mortise chisel is wider.
      Hope this helps.
      Best,
      Craig

    • Paul Sellers on 9 March 2016 at 12:37 pm

      Mainly because thin chisels like this don’t really need a bevel as they are so narrow. I have both, but because they are so thin they can snap so any metal that can be retained is better.

  7. Farred on 5 March 2016 at 6:36 pm

    I’m having a reality problem, feeling a bit light-headed–I thought I saw Paul using a power tool for making a mortise 🙂

    Wonderful series. I built a pair of these (9-inch throat) myself a while back after seeing a luthier demonstrate them. I seldom use them, but when you need them, nothing else will do.

  8. knightlylad on 5 March 2016 at 8:21 pm

    Thank you for the lesson.

  9. mkvernon on 6 March 2016 at 3:29 am

    Paul, thanks for the videos. I always enjoy watching and learning from you.
    I am unfamiliar with the wood you said you were using on these clamps. Sapita? I tried googling it, and got nowhere, so probably my spelling is wrong.

  10. Gary Rodewald on 7 March 2016 at 2:23 am

    love your easy still of woodworking keep going .
    THANKS Gary

  11. Glen Walls on 7 March 2016 at 5:45 pm

    Thank you, This is another good lesson in tool making.

  12. Jan-Åke Nilsson on 7 March 2016 at 8:25 pm

    Beautiful! Thank you Paul.
    I tried to find the kind of pin you describe that “rolls ínto itself” but I seem fail.
    If I understand you correctly this is of thinner material than a slotted pin and similar to a “rolled wafer”.
    Please tell me wher to find such rolled pins.
    All I can find on ebay are of slotted type.

    • Jan-Åke Nilsson on 7 March 2016 at 8:38 pm

      Are the coil pins US and the slotted European perhaps?

      • steveh on 8 March 2016 at 4:08 pm

        All of the roll pins I’ve seen in the US are the slotted ones. I’ve never seen one that coils in.

      • mikecaruso on 10 March 2016 at 3:34 am

        One explanation I’ve seen is that the rolled pins are a bit more automation friendly in that they there are no slots that can accidentally interlock and jam the insertion machinery.

    • Paul Sellers on 9 March 2016 at 12:42 pm

      You described it well as a wafer rolling into itself from thin plate stock. That’s exactly what it does. Both pin types work well. I am sure that both types will be available but I do not know where to send you in the USA except to try MSC Industrial Supply and look through their million of pages.

  13. ALLAN SOLOMON on 8 March 2016 at 4:10 pm

    very good informative step by step instructions. With regard to the jig for drilling square I find if you cut a v shape in the jig it gives a precise location for your designated hole.

  14. steveh on 8 March 2016 at 4:10 pm

    How would you make the mortise if you don’t have that narrow of a chisel? Just drill it out and pare down the walls?

    • Eric Weaver on 8 March 2016 at 5:33 pm

      Or use thicker bar stock instead. I could use a couple of these myself and the narrowest chisel I have is 1/4″. I’ll be getting 1/4″ bar stock, not 1/8″. Simple solution. If you’re worried about weight get aluminum instead of steel.

  15. aeichorn on 8 March 2016 at 11:08 pm

    The “coiled” pins Paul references are made by Spirol International in Danielson, Connecticut, USA. They have 2-1/4 turns. Google “Spirol Pins” and I’m sure you will find local source(s) that carries them. After you start looking for them you will see how widely they are used in both static and dynamic applications. Particularly in hinge applications. They are widely used by the automotive and appliance industry. I hope this helps.

  16. Michelle Uk on 18 March 2016 at 9:01 pm

    Really enjoyed the video. Is they’re anychance you can put a link to where you got the pins I am in the uk and have searched eBay but only found the slotted ones.

    Thanks again

  17. Michael Eleftheriou on 1 December 2020 at 1:36 pm

    Just on the subject of the pins, I couldn’t get them and I used nails–and the clamps are 100% fine.
    I made some bigger ones, too, and just used… bigger nails.

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