1. Thank you Paul, I just love watching you work your magic on wood. Watching you inspires me to get in the shop and and get my hands on the tools and wood and give a try on what each and everyone of your lessons you have shared. You are such a wonderful craftsman and gentleman, I greatly appreciate you.

    1. You could rebate the mitred side up to 1/3 of the thickness of the stock without impacting the joinery. On the other side, you would have to adjust the joinery on the shoulder. I would advise cutting and cleaning up the rebate first, then transferring to get an accurate meeting point. More than 1/3 would complicate the joinery.

      Chamfering the inside edge of the mitred side would not cause any issues. On the other side would have to be stopped, so more complicated.

    1. I still can’t believe people still wear watches with the glut of cellphones and everyone looking down. I threw mine away 15 years ago. That’s also about the time I retired so maybe that has something to do with it.

  2. Thank you Paul, that was very useful. Are you planning to follow up with a full frame building, including a picture rabbet, maybe inside chamfering and, most importantly to me, how to make sure your frame comes out square – are there any tricks to ensuring that opposite sides run precisely the same length, and how to correct it (if possible at all) when eventually they are slightly different?

    1. Hello Dan,
      Paul may go into some of these aspects, we have not fully decided yet. We did do the picture frame project some time ago that uses different joinery on the corner and includes some helpful details.

      As far as keeping everything parallel, clamping together opposite pieces for layout with a knife is key. The same skills used for making any panel frame would come in handy. See the free series on door making for useful info.

  3. I love these types of videos. The joint yes, wonderful. But the tools in action, the techniques, the on-going conversation and tips are golden for me. Your time and effort are so appreciated. Far beyond what I can express here. Thank you.

  4. Hi Paul, enjoyed this video the next picture frame I Wil use this method neat joint, I will do a dummy run first to get it in to my ageing brain.
    Many thanks, have a peaceful Christmas and a happy new year.
    Regards Larry.

  5. i so could have used this last week when i made a picture frame for stretching canvas… i did follow Paul’s tech. for lap joints and they all 8 came out perfect… i pushed myself this time and tried all the different tech. he demonstrated… now this was a first for me… being disabled i have a big problem being able to saw squarely and perpendicular but following Paul’s tech… work fantastically
    thanks Paul… your a great inspiration to me

  6. I’ve taken advantage of many of your techniques, Paul, but the proper use of the router plane has been one of the most satisfying. I don’t have a Preston, just a few Stanley No. 71’s, so had to use a wooden sole to enlarge one of them. But your bench techniques (and your bench) look odd to an American, holding workpieces in your vise for all operations and not using hold-downs or bench dogs. For me benchtop holding devices work best for planing, especially using a router plane where you can use an auxiliary piece to support the outboard end and keep the plane level. Probably just a matter of skill differences.

  7. I can’t help thinking about Paul’s excellent mortise & tenon technique and whether this tenon couldn’t be produced in that same manner, having the piece somewhat longer and then rather use the router plane with safe support on both sides. True, the angular side might produce a problem at the pointed end, but that part could be fixed after sawing off the end part of the piece. Merely a thought – triggered by Paul himself, as it were…

  8. Am I the only one who’s slightly confused by the setup of this technique?

    I’m struggling to understand what paul means when saying the cut lines from the router should be a bit different than the size of the chisel. Does he mean the lines should be wider in the middle tenon than the chisel? If so, why? And if so, when determining the position of the router blade, you’d set it slightly shallower than the chisel?

    I’ve tried using this method these past few days and have got three joints that all line up, but only after a good bit of fettling. The other issue I’m having is that I have to cut a little deeper in the mortice each corner. I line everything up with the knife and combo square, but end up taking the channel that little bit lower each time to get the mitred corner to line up properly. Can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong, and will watch the vid for the fifth time and try to see what Paul is doing different, but if anyone has any suggestions I’m all ears!


  9. I tried this last night on 2 sample pieces of pine. I made notes and sketches after watching the video. It came out great! I took my time and worked carefully. The little jig that is made at the beginning is brilliant.
    I never made this joint but Paul’s instruction was excellent. It is a great lesson in careful prep, layout, knife walls, sawing, mortising and hand router work.
    It was so satisfying after I completed it and all the joints were tight with no gaps.
    I plan to make a picture frame using the joint now. Thanks Paul and the team!

Leave a Reply