37 comments on “Winding Sticks – Episode 2

  1. It is as Colonel Travis said : not only the winding sticks (which , by the way – are a wonderfull technique), but the way you are doing them.Maybe , that’s what a master it’s all about.Thank you.

  2. I was interested to hear about the darker wood contaminating the lighter wood. That happened to me last year when I made a pair out of purpleheart and birch.

    I was also interested to learn what is considered to be an acceptable tolerance. As I understood it, Paul was happy with one-tenth of a millimeter. Did I hear that right?

  3. I have this image of someone clearing out my workshop in some future time and saying what are these stick and throwing them out. Still, how lovely to watch you make them. So much to learn and so little time.
    That for all your time making the videos you do.

  4. I’ve been following you a bit over a year now, maybe 18 months, and I cannot think of one single other way to better spend my woodworking budget. You’re a gifted teacher and a master of the craft. I’m so pleased you decided to share your knowledge and skills with the world.

  5. Excellent short series for an essential shop tool. It took me a while to understand how vital they are to woodworking. I rely and trust them now to keep my tables flat and my cabinets square. Thanks for showing us a way of making a wonderful pair to upgrade any we might have. I have some mahogany that would be perfect for these.

  6. I just made a pair this afternoon with scrap pieces I had kicking around. I love small projects that let me use up saved scrap. Oak, with walnut and maple inlays. I made one mistake – I made my dovetail inlays upside down! Oh well, I went with it and I’ll still have a useful tool. Thanks for the instruction.

  7. Since I found these videos only last week I think I have watched most of them.They are very well done. It seems that the very end of the clip is cut off in both 1&2.
    Funny thing is that when I run them through in my head I sound very English.

  8. That last few minutes showed some excellent camera work. Hats off to whoever was on camera at that last point. It really shows how those light inlays on the rear stick make it much more obvious.

    Thank you Paul and team for another great lesson.

  9. I cut the Sapele board in half, along its length, diagonally, this morning. I was pretty happy as I was able to stay on line for the full length (16 inches) of the cut. I ran into a problem though. After I had ripped down about 3 inches or so, I saw that the kerf at the beginning of the cut had closed up some. The further I cut, the tighter the kerf closed. Must have relieved the stresses of this particular board, as you had mentioned it might do. So now, when I hold a straight edge along the length of the board, on the beveled face, The straight edge contacts the ends, but shows a gap in the middle of almost 1/8th inch – the board has a hollow along its length on the beveled side, and is crooked (I believe that’s what it’s called?) on the opposite face.
    Anything I can do about that? If I plane the length of the wood, to make it flat across its length, I will have to remove way too much material. Should I just wait a few days and see if the board acclimates itself to my shop, and straightens itself out, at least partially, and then plane it?
    Any help, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Kenny

  10. Wouldn’t it be easier and also faster and smarter to have the black strip along the entire top of the front strip? That way you wouldn’t have to worry about conflicting grain direction between the mahogany and the ebony, as well as all that fussing with the rebate which seemed to be both time consuming and precarious from a clamping perspective. One last benefit would be that the front stick is therefore bidirectional. I really enjoyed the two part series, now all I have to do is get some ebony or purpleheart for the project!

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