Reply To: Cornice / Crown
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You try to make the cut right first time in a miter box, with the crown inserted upside down and at the correct angle. Think of the bed of the miter box as the ceiling, and the back wall of the miter box as the wall.
Remember you can open or close the top or bottom of a joint a little by how the trim sits on the wall, and you can relieve the back of a miter a little with a knife.
Walls and ceilings are seldom square, so you need to learn to make the adjustments efficiently.
Inside corners were coped, not mitered.
Here is the process using a chop saw, but itβs the same with a hand box.
We used to use a Lion mitre trimmer for production work to clean up the cuts. 4-5β was about the upper size limit for the crown in the tool.
It was quicker and safer than a chop saw and left very smooth ends like a shooting board if you kept the blades sharp. The tool has been around for probably 100 years. Clones are available from Rockler, Highland Woodworking, and Wood River. Probably others. I have only ever used the original Lion brand. Before the advent of the chop saw, it was how cuts from a hand miter box were adjusted.
I see them on the used market for maybe $50 or so, but they became redundant with slide compound saws and laser sights.
There is one without a handle sitting in my local scrap yard u should probably rescue, but my production days are over.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 10 months ago by Larry Geib.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 10 months ago by Larry Geib.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 10 months ago by Larry Geib.