Reply To: Quick cabinet
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By the way, Paul teaches that you should cut the hinge mortise with a bit of slope so that the hinge leaves are open a tiny bit when the door is closed, i.e., open in angle, not just the bit of gap that’s comes from the pin. The idea is to leave clearance for the screw heads which, for him, protrude a bit because he sets them off center in their holes.
One thing to point out is to keep that bit of slope *small.* I made mine a bit too much. I figured, more depth won’t hurt anything and I won’t fuss thinking too much about it. The unforeseen outcome was that the hinge pin center pivots around the edge of the mortise because of this slope, and this changes the gap on the hinge side of the door.
What I do now is to cut the mortise flat and true, first, and then deepen by about 1/64 to 1/32 on the far side. I check that with my little engineers square (as a depth gauge) after deepening just the last 1/4″ of the mortise, next to the wall that abuts the far side of the leaf. When that depth is right, which only takes a moment, I then work a uniform slope by paring from the outside edge (without changing its depth!) back to the wall that abuts the far side of the leaf.
If you’re not careful with this, you can really make fitting the door come out other than your intend.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 9 months ago by Ed.