Block Planes
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- This topic has 5 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 8 months ago by Tim Ridolfi.
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29 August 2018 at 1:32 am #550712
Having been on this site for a while, I’ve never seen Paul use or even reference block planes. Having done finish carpentry for many years, my Stanley 220, bought new in the late 70’s, was never far away. When I started hand woodworking, I tried fine tuning as Paul does with a #4. It felt unnatural and have turned to a low-angle block plane to trim dovetails on pieces such as trays and drawers. Not trying to sway anyone one way or the other, just wondering if there are others who prefer using a block planes on smaller pieces.
29 August 2018 at 1:40 am #550713I use a 65 or a 601/2 in the normal course of things to refine arises and such. I prefer the moveable mouth. As they come from the factory, the mouths don’t close enough, so you have to do a little blacksmithing. The lie Nielsen version does close more out of the box.
I also have a couple thumb planes. Depending on the job, some little plane is always in my apron.
Paul is demonstrating all projects new, from scratch, at the workbench. Real-world woodworking is more than that.
I use my Block Planes a lot. They’re easier to control single-handedly for trimming, especially when the material is flimsy, difficult to support, or already in-situ.
You can’t beat a Block Plane for trimming sticking Windows, Worktop Laminates, Bath Panels, Hardboard, Architrave, Beading, Veneers, Paint runs… Bench Planes are just too bulky and heavy for those.
I do also like collecting them.I bought the block plane very early on in my return to woodworking. Now it sits in the bottom of the toolbox. I rarely, if ever, use it. Like Paul, I use the #4 or a #3 for pretty much everything that a conventional block plane could be used for. Now if it were a rebating block plane, I might have more use for it in trimming tenons – but it isn’t!
All personal preferences!
Cheers
MarkHYou’ll notice also Paul uses a Thorex hammer (choked-up near the head) for chiselling. Whereas I wouldn’t be without my weighty mallet. Others use claw-hammers.
As @Markh says, it’s preference, and perhaps budget and opportunity.Paul does use his Stanley 90 bullnose shoulder rebate now & again. He blogged this month that he’s recently replaced it.
Paul said there’s several tools and methods he avoids using on camera, so viewers don’t gain the impression they’re essential tools & skills for beginners. That’s why the tool cupboard and collection disappeared.
I too would love a rebating block plane! Perhaps two. Skewed left & right. I don’t need ’em (I’d use a 78 rebate) but that’s not the point.
31 August 2018 at 5:20 pm #550806I use a block plane frequently. Paul mentions in a least one of his blog posts that he does also use a block plane occasionally. You don’t need a block plane for bench work, but it can be handy.
I think that block planes are indispensable for carpentry. Bench planes are not so handy when you don’t have a bench, and they don’t fit well in your tool pouch. In the shop, I will reach for a block plane to take off the fuzzies whenever I crosscut without a knife wall. I keep a block plane by the table saw for that purpose. In most situations where Paul shows using a bench plane one-handed, I will reach for a block plane instead. This is just a matter of preference, and like I said, you don’t need one for bench work.
I am fond of a Stanley 65, which I use most often, but I also often use a 101, sometimes for small parts or tight spaces, but mostly for for putting a sharp chisel point on my pencil.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 8 months ago by Tim Ridolfi.
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