Does size matter…
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- This topic has 12 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 5 months ago by DANIEL WALLACE.
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18 November 2017 at 9:24 am #373166
I’m an absolute beginner, I fitted a hinge once (badly)! But have been watching and become inspired by the tutorials/videos. So I’ve signed up, purchased a few tools, Combination Square, Saw, No4 Plane, Chisels, (pencil) and have an idea what I’m looking for in a router and plough plane, no problem so far. Now I’m looking at Hand Braces, (No73 seemed simple enough) but they come in different sizes (I assume this is rotation diameter) so does size matter?
18 November 2017 at 10:41 am #373229Larger braces make it easier to drill large holes. Smaller braces are quicker. In fact, the 5″ and 6″ sweep models were called “quick braces”.
They also fit in tight spaces. But you have to wrestle with them for holes larger than about 5/8″The model in most carpenter’s box or on his bench was the 10″, which would work with the standard 13 piece bit set. ( up to 1 1/2″ )
12″ and 14″ we’re for larger holes. I used a 12″ for 2 1/4 lockset holes before god invented batteries and the internet.
The 14″ had more torque, but using one was a bit like rowing a boat.
https://www.jimbodetools.com/products/rare-stanley-no-73-5-inch-bit-brace-70584
Here’s a 73-5 . Note the open ratchet parts. They can gather debris, so you might want to consider something from the 923 series which had the gear the pawls engaged concealed, or the 2101 series, which were totally enclosed.
The 2101a was the Cadillac of braces, with an almost silent ratchet system which was totally concealed and the best are the old Bell System model used by telephone folks. They had rubber handles that we’re indestructible.
But they are all generally indestructible if maintained. My Miller Falls 34 quick brace is on its fourth owner, judging from the owners stamps on it. It’s probably good for another 120 years.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 5 months ago by Larry Geib.
Briefly, short sweep braces are faster but longer sweep gives you more leverage for tougher jobs. You will see more 10″ sweep braces than all other sizes combined, which reflects the consensus that this is the best all around size. 6″ braces are fine for small diameter bits and–especially–for cranking screwdriver bits. If you ever have to turn a #24 auger bit you will wish that you had a 14″ or 16″ brace, neither of which is easy to find or cheap.
Dave
18 November 2017 at 3:13 pm #373496Thanks Gents, thats been really useful. So 10″ is where I should start and perhaps an 8″ if one comes up and consider the ratcheting (open vs closed).
18 November 2017 at 6:06 pm #373697The rachet style was probably more important when they got thrown in the dirt on job sites or in a messy shop. Condition is probably most important. You want the ratchet to run free and be relatively quiet. The stiff and noisy ones mean they might not ratchet with small bits, as more energy is used in ratcheting.
also, some people say you should only look at braces with ball bearring pads. I find that not so important. The brace I own that runs freest is just a metal on metal joint and it spins longer than any of my braces with bearings.
Don’t limit yourself to Stanley. Peck, Stowe,and Wilcox ( Pexto) and Miller Falls made fine braces, as did smaller companies like Enders.
Get an old one. The new bit-braces being made overseas are mostly brace-type objects.
You shouldn’t have to pay much. Around here $10 gets a functioning brace. Even rare ones can be had for maybe twice that at antique fairs. Collectors haven’t taken to fighting over them yet like they do with other tools.
Oh yeah… Make sure the jaws have their springs and still open and close well.
18 November 2017 at 6:30 pm #373728Nah. I have an Enders Oak Leaf brace that is considered pretty rare.
Paid $7 for it.
About the most expensive you’ll see are the Bell system ones, and there are many thousands of them out there.
Don’t overlook the older Craftsman braces, which were usually made for Sears by Millers Falls. The best ones had the heavy duty “Lion” chuck and are about as good as anything ever made.
Of course if you do a lot of work on top of utility poles in heavy rainstorms the Yankee “Bell System” braces are the only way to go.
Dave
19 November 2017 at 1:48 pm #374621Of course with my brace I’m gonna need bits. I see that there are two patterns, Jennings and Irwins, any thoughts on which way to go? How do I tell, is it just by the different screw pattern on the tip?
19 November 2017 at 6:16 pm #374862Jennings are the ‘double twist’ pattern, Irwin the ‘single twist’, and yes you tell just by looking. Either are generally fine for the job – some people say Jennings can be better in hardwood but I’m not sure about that, however they are a bit easier to keep straight in the hole (I find).
If buying second hand look very closely at photos, if the spur (curved tip at the top next to the lead in screw) is missing (due to heavy use) then the bit is useless – similarly if the screw tip is missing the tip it’s not going to be very great to use.
I used a 13/16 Jennings bit today through some American white oak with a 10″ Marples brace and wow, it was tough going, one problem is I don’t have a proper auger bit file to sharpen it.
19 November 2017 at 7:23 pm #374923The utility for softwoods and hardwoods is more complex than just Irwin or Jennings. Both patterns came in different styles.
The best way to gauge success in hardwood is to look at the pitch on the snail, which can be found in various pitches with both styles. Also, I have Irwin bits with one spur and two spurs, both with two cutting flats. The former usually have a coarser snail and bigger single spur and seem to eat right through softwoods.
I’ll try to post a picture of the two styles, but my camera is charging.
Jennings pattern bits also came with aggressive or fine snails over the years. I acquired a set piecemeal, and there are all different pitches.
19 November 2017 at 8:16 pm #374966The bit on the left says Stanley Irwin no.112H with two spurs and fine snail. The bit on the right says Irwin with one spur and a coarse snail.
Both are number 10’s, thhougn the one on the left measures out as a doweling bit.My guess is the H is for hardwoods, but I have no information on that.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 5 months ago by Larry Geib.
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