Does this clock look to top heavy

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    This is a clock I made. I was reluctant to use the molding. I was afraid that it made it to top heavy (regarding appearence). I am thinking of making another as a gift but I don’t want to use this design of it looks strange. You can be honest I have thick skin.

    I enjoyed making it. I used a set of hollows and rounds to make the molding and I used butterfly keys to join the molding.

    Afterward it seemed to be too much going on at the top. But I still enjoyed making it.



    Matt McGrane

    Personally I do think it looks top-heavy. But it is still a very attractive clock.

    And by the way – great for you doing the moldings with H&R planes. I need to get around to experimenting with making moldings this year.

    Matt, Northern California - Started a blog in 2016:


    I agree. Ditto on using the HeR planes.
    Why not plane the down a little.

    There is an excellent book called “By hand and eye” that helped me to do better with proportions.


    Joe Kaiser

    In my opinion, it is a great looking clock. My first thought was that you hung it upside down!so yeah, it look top heavy to me. 🙂

    Good work though! I hope I can make them that good soon.

    Seattle, WA


    Thanks for the responses. I think it looks top heavy but hey you build and learn. I definitely learned some techniques on the molding. I enjoyed making it. Getting the miter joints just right was interesting.


    It takes courage to ask for criticism. Well done. Many times, we struggle through a project and just need encouragement, but other times we really need feedback. I think getting and giving that feedback is one of the biggest things we can do to help each other, but it’s hard to tell when someone needs encouragement and when they need candid feedback.

    May I add one other thing? On the large (beautiful) moulding you cut for the top, it looks like there is a dark portion. It may just be lighting, so I’m not sure. Someone once taught me that, when you cut curves for large mouldings like this, or cabriole legs, etc., you are really exposing end grain in some portions of the curve. Those sections can then go too dark when you apply stain or other color. To deal with that, and to make the color more uniform, you can selectively sand those portions of the work to higher grit to burnish the grain, which closes it up and reduces how much stain goes in. You can work on a test scrap to figure out where it is needed, and how much. You may need to work up to 600 grit. Again, this is only done in the portions of the curve where you’re cutting across the grain so as to expose end grain. You’ll need to feather the sanding grits to get a uniform appearance, and if you go to broadly and burnish the portions of the curve that are face grain, then those will come out too light.

    Sometimes, you may want it to go dark to emphasize a curve and here it may not be real and may just be lighting from above, but it seemed an opportunity to pass this on. Mouldings are supposed to cast shadows. That’s what they do!

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