Error in sharpening, how to corect them?
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The blade depicted below belongs to my new/old Stanley no.4 made in England i bought some months ago.
So the blade is not straight: the bevel is not perpendicular to the blade sides; the edge is not straight; bevel angle is not constant along the Whole bevel: it’s shallower at the right side and bigger at the left side.
How could i fix it using common tools?Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.For my 2cents, it depends on what methods you have available. If it were me I would settle in for re-shaping on the coarse stones or even 80 grit sandpaper on a flat surface, use a honing guide to re-establish your bevel angle and side to side parallel. From there I would go to free hand per Paul’s method. Again depends on what you have available, but personally I would not use a power grinder, does not look that far out really.
7 September 2014 at 3:55 pm #65668Use a square and a sharpie to draw a line or lines across the blade as a reference; check it frequently as you go. Really, its not 100% critical for the entire bevel surface to be perfect, only the edge. I have a blade that I rescued from a broken plane that had an edge that was badly out of square. I worked with it for a while and got it to a point where at least a couple of millimeters of the bevel was perfectly straight and flat, but at one corner it is still not aligned at the upper portion of the bevel. This is not the part that contacts the wood, so it doesn’t affect the blades performance and it cuts like a dream. As for the varying bevel angle, most of that should fix itself once you get the edge square.
I had exactly the same issue. I used the same method as cpetersen1970: draw a grid on the blade, and then i have used Paul’s method using 220grit diamond and manually adjusting my hand to make it straight. once i had it straight i have continued on 600 and 1200 stones as usually. it works, but with 220 grit it is _a lot_ of work. so you might start with something coarser unless you want to do it for 2 hours 🙂
8 September 2014 at 7:03 pm #69225I also would regrind the blade square using course wet and dry paper attached to a piece of float glass, it is a lot quicker than using the diamond plates and you are saving your diamond plates for normal sharpening
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