Information request about wooden tongue and groove planes
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19 August 2015 at 9:16 am #129476
Hi all,
I’m currently very much focussed on learning and improving my skills to create picture/photo frames. Following the information on Paul’s making of a rebate plane, I managed to create a rebate plane myself and very happy too about it, it really works like a charm!
The frames I manage are quite crisp and clean, dead square and with satisfying mitres. They are straight, no profile or any other decorative elements. This would be my next step ahead. First I will experiment with use of the ‘poor manβs beading & marking tool’. But it won’t stop there; I still have some old moulding planes that need put to the test (still need sharpening), but first I want to get to making inlaid picture frames, inspired by a youtube movie of Paul demonstrating this technique at Woodworking Show 2012 (also others).
The basic approach is to use tongue- and groove planes to create the groove in the frame and shave, then cut an inlay strip that fits tight. Old and beautiful tongue and groove planes are regularly on offer in the area where I ‘shop’, but I’m confused as to how they work so I didn’t have the courage to try and buy one yet.
Researching wooden tongue and groove planes, I usually find explanations that are based on planes with 2 cutting irons pointing in opposite directions. (Example: http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/wooden-tongue-groove-plane-t55750.html). My understanding is that these are operated in one direction to create the groove and in the other direction to create the tongue and the irons are a pair that match for an exact fit.
The planes I see at markets only have one cutting iron (example photos attached), so I wonder if they require their matching ‘opponent’?
Would anybody care to ex’plane’ a bit on this topic, or maybe somebody has a link to a website with good information?
Thanks, cheers,
Igor20 August 2015 at 1:54 am #129530Hi Igor. I don’t own and T&G planes, but I do have the Garrett Hack book, “The Hand Plane Book”. It’s an excellent reference and I learned a lot from it. The section on T&G planes is actually entitled “Match Planes” because they were typically made as two separate planes and sold in pairs. One plane cut the groove and the other cut the tongue. The book does mention that the planes that cut both the tongue and the groove (two irons in the same plane) are less common and look like two planes joined together.
The plane in your pictures I think is a plow plane. It has an adjustable fence, so it can create grooves at any distance from an edge. The Hack book says that the wooden match planes were made in pairs for a specific board thickness. So you might find a pair that puts a T&G in 1/4 thick boards, or 3/4″ thick boards, etc. They would have fixed fences. If you were to look for T&G planes, you should really find some that were made specifically in pairs.
I hope this helps.
p.s., the wedge is in backwards in the first picture in your post.
20 August 2015 at 2:11 am #129532What Matt said is wright they are made as sets I have two sets 1/4 and 1/2 they work like a H&R or a rabbit plane.and are simple to make. The trick is matching the irons, you can buy 01 steel and cut them with basic tools.
Frankj20 August 2015 at 9:12 am #129543Thank you both! Good to know while looking around at markets and online offerings.
Yes, the wedge is backwards indeed. Often, the people who have such treasures for sale don’t know what it actually is that they have in their hands. π
Generally T & G planes come in 3 configurations:
First, double ended, or ‘come-and-go’ planes, where each cutter is mounted at opposition to each other. With two handles, you cut the first component, say the tongue on one board, mount the other board and reverse the plane to cut the groove. They come in wooden and metal versions. I think that they were a compromise design intended to economise on tool-box space for itinerant carpenters.
Second, matched pairs, generally wooden bodies.
Third, Metal swinging fence planes. Made by Union, Stanley and latterly Lie-Nielsen who have copied the Stanley pattern.
Usually each type was configured to centre on a particular width of board, plus a little lee-way, which means that you need two or three sets of planes if you want to work the full range of boards. In general these planes would go up to about 1 inch or a little over. Wider T & G planes do exist, but are rare.
It is possible to make T&G joints with a plough and a rebate plane, but it’s very long winded compared to dedicated planes.
However, to get these planes to work accurately so that the joints fit and are in line, demands careful preparation of the stock and meticulous care when sharpening blades.
It’s important to get the edge of the tongue dead flat across and at right angles to the action of the plane, and on both blades to pay attention to the sides of the blade and the corners. Raggy, blunt or rounded corners will, on any blade, ensure that it wanders as it descends in the cut, or even stops cutting altogether after a few strokes.
Hope this helps……
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