Liquid Hide Glue
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Some time ago I read Paul’s blog post (Titebond Liquid Hide Glue – Good to Go?, April 30, 2013). At the time I was intrigued to learn that “a sharp rap with a well placed chisel can split the glue line” with no wood damage.
Recently I started a project in which I thought I could make good use of this property. I rub joined two pieces of 8″x20″ maple forming a 16″x20″ piece. I did the required work on the joined pieces and today was ready to split them apart.
Chisel placed on the end grain glue line with the wood upright in the vise, a very sharp rap…nothing…a few more…again nothing…do same on the other end and all still holding fast. Both ends showing the effects of a buried chisel having been there.
So either the chisel is not “well placed” or my sharp rap in not sharp enough (the chisel did sink in well).
I could just saw the pieces apart but I would really rather split the glue line if possible.
Any advise? Has anyone tried this with success? (BTW I am using Old Brown liquid glue)
Thanks
12 November 2017 at 7:15 pm #364519Too late for you, but a piece of butcher paper in the joint during glue-up works well for joints you want to release ( works with PVA also). I have used the method to attach temporary clamping blocks where you can’t get a bar clamp in. If you are spare in application, even newspaper will work.
But you are in luck. Hide glue releases with heat and moisture, and a little alcohol seems to help. Just don’t tell the missus what you are using her hair dryer or steam iron for. The goal is to warm the whole board in the area of the joint, not just scorch the surface. Go slow.
Thanks, I had forgotten about the susceptibility to heat. I have used the paper method once before with a turning but using PVA glue.
I retried Paul’s splitting method with no luck it is really holding fast. I did get it apart using other means.
I will experiment a bit more with scrap and see if I can’t get the result Paul describes in his blog quote below.“Unlike most all other glues, hide glue is readily split along its glue-line if and when necessary. This characteristic then allows maker-repairer to separate the components by shock-splitting along any glue lines, often using no more than a thin knife tapped with a hammer to split one part from another.”
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