ROUTER PLANES
Welcome! / Forums / General Woodworking Discussions / ROUTER PLANES
- This topic has 33 replies, 15 voices, and was last updated 9 years ago by Sandy.
-
AuthorPosts
-
Hi Gary,
Thanks for the reply and suggestion to fix the problems the Veritas has. I guess if you buy an old Stanley off of ebay that costs 1/4 of the cost of the Veritas; you’ll get a better product right off the bat without having to do anything ;-D
I mean, Veritas should know better.
Cheers!
Anonymous17 November 2012 at 7:58 am #3351Never a problem Mex 🙂
I suppose you’re right in terms of older Stanley/Record router planes (Possibly other models too) as they’re so basic, there’s very little that can go wrong with them and they do their serve their intended purpose with little/no messing. A lot of the time you can pick up a decent old router plane (Here in the UK) for a little as approx £10 – £20 and much of the time have a full set of blades (3) and their removable side fence . The most that tends to need improving on them relates to blade sharpening and possibly re-finishing their handles, but they can be good to go within minutes of unpacking.
Mexiquite, contact Lee Valley about your issues. They need to hear about problems and are generally quite responsive. If you don’t hear back, post here as I’ve got Rob Lee’s email somewhere should it be necessary. He also frequents the handtool section of woodnet.net so you can post there to reach him direct.
And item 2 above is the best way to deal with “too small” base issues from ANY brand router plane (or electric spinny-beast too). I’ve done this with the LN and Stanley routers and it works great.
I’ve not had problems with the replacement irons I bought having the “heads” come loose. Definitely contact LV about that issue. Or just invest in a $3 bottle of medium strength Lock-Tite and be done with it. You can also use CA glue and either consider it a permanent fix or just apply a little heat when it is time for the threads to come loose again.
Anonymous18 November 2012 at 11:01 am #3399Acetone/nail varnish remover works extremely well if ever you need to release/remove CA glue. 😉
I was cleaning up the workbench and while re-arranging the goodies on the shelf I picked up my Stanley 66 beader. Â It reminded me that that is yet ANOTHER possibility for router planes in small work. Â A full set of #66 “blades” included a router plane blade such as the photo I’ve attached.
While not the greatest solution to a small router plane (the #271 or its cousins is a better choice) it does have one very important aspect and that is the #66 is a fantastic multi-tasking tool. Â Not to be a commercial, but LN offers new models however the secondary market is quite full of vintage #66s. Â Often missing are the extra blades (make your own, buy from LN or from St. James Bay Tool Co.) and the fence(s). Â There are supposed to be two fences, a straight and a curved. Â My own #66 is missing the curved fence. Â Having both fences is nice if for no other reason except that you can push one up against the other and when tightened down, it minimizes the chance of a fence slipping. Â So far, I’ve not found a slipping fence to be a big problem using the straight fence on well-behaved wood. Â YMMV.
First picture is three blades, a “new made” bead, its vintage counterpart and a new made router blade (vintage one wasn’t in the little storage box, rather worried it may be lost!). Â Next photo shows the #66 with the router blade installed & fence removed. Â Last photo shows the hook of the router blade. Â Sharpen the same as a fixed leg blade for a #271 by hanging off the side of the stone.
(Well, can’t seem to edit files so now I not only have them out of order, I’ve got one duplicated. Â Anyway, I think you all can figure it out based on the descriptions.)
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.Anonymous3 January 2013 at 10:51 am #6093Well after weeks of waiting, Veritas router planes are still out of stock. So I have just bought the Lie Nielsen closed throat version, and should have it tomorrow 🙂
Just like Christmas all over again 🙂 😉
Anonymous3 January 2013 at 6:47 pm #6105Thanks juryaan,
I’m sure it will end up a much used plane buddy
3 January 2013 at 8:13 pm #6114I have an older Miller Falls  router plane. It works wonderfully well. Occasionally you can find an old one at flea markets or antique malls. Should be considered a viable option
4 January 2013 at 12:39 am #6124I have two old Stanley #71’s. Im cleaning one up now but neither has any good wood (knobs) between them. Hope to have one up and running soon.
Anonymous4 January 2013 at 2:05 pm #6138Hey  guys, I received my router plane today, very nice it is too. Yes I had to have a little go with it, pleased I ended up with the Lie Nielsen version, I like it a lot. 😉
[[ I go with Gary. There is a hole on each side of the base ready for screws to attach any size of larger base. This limits the cutting depth depending on the thickness of the material of the screwed-on base.
I have used the veritas in deep dadoes where I removed the depth stop to get to the full depth. It works fine if you respect to remove only little material at a time.
You will be happy with it, Ken! After unpacking the box you will know why it costs £120. It’s very well made. Since it was the first veritas plane I’ve bought, I was a little bit concerned before but never again after.
Florian]]
Sorry, I didn’t see there was a second page in this thread! Nevertheless, have fun with your new router, Ken 😉
7 January 2013 at 12:26 am #6204I also have the Veritas router plane and it’s a nice tool to use. What I don’t like is that it leaves scratches on the wood because you are moving it across the grain. It’s a bit like sanding cross grain. Ok it’s always on the inside but still.
7 January 2013 at 11:48 pm #6239I will try that Juryaan. I have done that with some other planes but not yet with this one. I also get scratches when I mount it on a larger MDF base. Maybe I press to hard :).
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.