Second hand Stanley 4 1/2

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • Author
  • #651862


    I recently bought a second hand Stanley n4 1/2. I haven’t planed with it yet
    It came with two “defects” and I’d like to know what you think of it

    The frog is quite damaged on the fore part where it meets the throat. It is flat but has some quite big nicks where it rests on the sole.
    Do you think this could cause issues while planning ? By preventing the iron to be fully supported for example or by dimishing the quality of contact between the frog and the sole ? I’m not worring too much about this first one but any opinion would be appreciated.

    My main concern is about the second defect as it makes it quite difficult to set the depth of cut. As it is I can’t retract the cutting edge fully in (the wheel gets stuck near the base of the thread).
    The thread of the depth adjustment wheel stud is damaged and it is very difficult to turn the wheel on some parts. How do you think this could be fixed without removing the stud from the cast iron frog ? With a very small file ?

    Thank you for your help.


    Can you post some photos?


    Of course, I wasn’t home when I wrote this.
    Here are 2 photos of the frog and 2 of the adjuster screw.
    Regarding the adjuster screw, it is difficult to this on the photos but there are quite a lot of flat spots so the wheel can’t move freely. And near the frog body, the thread is torn and the wheel cannot be moved further with damaging the brass thread.



    There’s nothing about the edge or tip of the frog to worry about. I always give them a light sanding but no more.

    I have planes like that and they work fine.

    The thread issue however is more of a problem.

    It’s not my area of expertise, so would defer to others on here.

    Might be worth hunting out a replacement frog on eBay?

    To everyone reading this: can the threaded bolt be removed?

    Sorry I can’t help more with the thread issue.


    • This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by Darren.
    Austin Conner

    Deleted response

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by Austin Conner.
    • This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by Austin Conner. Reason: Forgot this was a left-handed thread
    Julio T.

    I’ve fixed threads like that one using a very small file with a very soft teething (precision flat and triangular files used by jewellers). It’s difficult if you are not habituated to work with metals, but it can be done if you are careful and patient. The bolt is inverse thread, so it can be very difficult to find a nut to “re-cut” the threads. The adjusting wheel is made of brass, so it is softer than bolt and if you force the movement you can damage the threads on the wheel.
    For removing the bolt, you can use a pair of pliers but you must cover the jaws with some layers of electrical isolating tape. That way you won’t damage the threads. I’ve used that method to remove the bolt of an old Woden #4 a few days ago. Remember: it is an inverse thread bolt, so you must turn it clockwise to loose it. I’ve uploaded a photo for you to see how to do it. For attaching it again, remember: you must turn counterclockwise. If the bolt loosens when turning the adjusting wheel, you can always secure it with some type of screw cement, like Loctite 648.
    Regarding the “dents” on the “legs” of the frog, they are behind the blade, so they shouldn’t affect to the plane, but they can be fixed refilling with some sinthetic metal paste, like Nural, and filed and sanded after.
    I’ve seen metalworkers to use methods like these to repair pieces that are complicated to replace in the Refinery I work, and they work surprisingly well many times.

    Austin Conner

    Thank you Julio! I forgot this was a left-handed thread in my response.

    I’m deleting my previous post in shame.

    Dave Ring

    I agree that the defect a the nose of the frog shouldn’t cause any problems. As for cleaning up the adjuster stud, you would want to use a triangular needle file. (These are usually sold in sets with various shapes.)


    Larry Geib

    Several companies make files specifically designed to repair threads. If you have a mechanic friend, a set will be in his kit.
    They can also be bought individually, and sometime designed for several ( up to eight) thread pitches. Single pitch files are flatter and might work better around the frog.

    One you want is for 24 tpi, as the listed thread size for the adjuster is 9/32” x 24 tpi. ( American unified form)
    In a pinch, you Might get away with a 12 tpi file. Record planes are the same size

    Google thread chasing or thread repair file. A dozen types pop up on Amazon, and a couple well stocked hardware stores near me stock them.

    If you are careful, a metric .100 mm thread pitch file would probably work . The pitch difference is only Around .06mm, or about 2 thousanths of an inch, which wouldn’t be noticeable over the Three or four threads the file works on.

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 8 months ago by Larry Geib.
    • This reply was modified 2 years, 8 months ago by Larry Geib.
    • This reply was modified 2 years, 8 months ago by Larry Geib.

    Thank you all for your help. It really is much appreciated.
    I’ll try to find small files or thread files to see what I can do.
    Than you

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.