Shooting Board….HELP!!!
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Thanks as always Ed for your long reply! Going to read it in my shop tomorrow with my tools next to it.
The wall I mean is the wood where the blade is registering to. The wood where the recess is cut into.
Even without the wedges in, the plane doesn’t seem flush with the wood. I think you can see it in the photos uploaded.
I assumed this was caused because of the last few millimeters are not cut by the iron of the blade??Does my plane have to flush with the stop or also with the full wall the plane is gliding too?
I assumed you make the stop to be flush with the wall, as the plane is gliding next to the wall.
Sorry for using the word wall all the time 🙂 don’t know what it’s called😝
Oh, I see it in the photo now. Please check whether the plane is square between the sole and the cheek and, separately, whether the wall of the channel that the plane slides in is square to the bottom of the channel/rebate.
The most important things are 1) The wedge/stop is at the desired 90 or 45 degree angle that you are seeking 2) the blade of the plane is at right angles to the bed that the work rests on and 3) there is no gap between the sole of the plane and the end of the wedge. Item 1) gives you “square across” or “45 across” while Item 2) makes the end square across the thickness. As long as the plane runs without wobbling, gaps between the plane and the channel don’t really matter for either of these, although a gap may increase the chance of wobbling. If you are off a little on an angle, you can adjust in one of many ways. Item 3) keeps the corner of the work from breaking out by supporting the fibers in the work piece as the plane passes over and off the end. This is why you shouldn’t have a gap between the end of the wedge/stop and the sole of the plane. If you do have a gap, the shooting board will still work to square off your work, but you will probably find broken fibers on the far corner of the work.
The sole is flat. But the “wall” the plane is running on is not square.
This is because the first 5-6mm the sole of the plane has no blade!
On some tutorials i saw that they put a small recess in this wall, so the sole is always square without adjusting it by hand.See picture 2 for what I mean.
Is it handy to have this square?Now going to sharpen / square the blade!
With more practice it seems the being square is just practice holding the plane correctly.
And nr 2 is to not slide to much back, keep contact with sole.3 probably will be to just have a much sharper blade!
How much angle can you correct with shooting board?
And we are shooting!!!
1. Practice on small pine wood
2. Sharp blade
3. Don’t let sole loose contact with working piece
4. Very tiny bits at a time.Tonight more practice. I assume some waste oak wood will be of a completely other level!!
Thanks for all tips!Sounds like progress! And it looks like you are getting more like shavings than dust. “Don’t lose contact with working piece” also sounds right. Often, I feel a little click as the work slides sideways to register against the toe of the plane just as the blade is clear when the plane is brought back.
Eventually the plane cuts a slight recess in shooting board ( and the fence!), except for a small lip at the bottom where no iron protrudes from the plane mouth. You have to keep extending the iron to take a shaving from the work.
@alan141 thnx for replying! Sorry I’m getting back to you so late!!! I had some major life distractions! Anyway, I’ve almost solved my issues with the shooting board. I will keep your suggestion in mind to close the frog more to take more shallow shavings! Thanks for you input!
@rowdy sorry for such a late reply to you. Great input! Yes, turning the board over and fettling with the blade adjustment does help!
@hkimsey yes, I am referencing off the same edge that I put against the fence. I think I have solved the problem now. Sorry for that late reply! I appreciate your input!!!
@brzteach sorry for the late reply! I have not squared the fence to the plane. I will be trying that this weekend. Thanks for the advice! Much appreciated!!!
@dbockel2 I have started using a no.5 plane now. It is very sharp indeed. I made some adjustments and I think I’ve almost solved my problems with the shooting board. Thanks for the advice! Much appreciated!
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