Sorby chisel restoration
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26 April 2014 at 11:28 pm #56450
tried several time to post this not up loading.
I have restored 5/8″ Sorby bevel edge chisel I got for £5 off of ebay.
Reground primary bevel as edge had gaps and chips in it.
Spliced new bit of Ash to handle to get rid of damage and splits.
Finished with shellack.Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.27 April 2014 at 10:33 am #56464I see Paul’s blog and see he restored some chisels. Paul used part of another old Handle to splice to handle being restored so colour match would be better.
I did not have another handle I could chop into.
So I used a bit of Ash to splice to old handle. May be I should have stained to make woods look uniform ?
On Paul’s blog the chisels he restored he spliced a piece of wood more on the side so he had original wood full length of handle.
My concern with my chisel is will it hold up to mallet blows?
I suppose I will find that out.27 April 2014 at 2:35 pm #56473That was my first concern as well Mark. I hope that it does though. You did a fantastic job on that handle.
27 April 2014 at 3:00 pm #56476Thanks Greg.
Chisel has a very fine bevel edges so Ideal for dovetails you would not want to hit to hard as blade is quite thin.
Fingers crossed for when I first give it a mallet blow. 😮28 April 2014 at 4:06 pm #56529I think the two tone handle makes it look unique, hopefully it will stand up to moderate mallet blows.
28 April 2014 at 6:32 pm #56532Nice save. I would think if there was going to be a concern for failure under the range of mallet blows as we see them in Mr. Sellers videos, he would not have shown that type of repair in his blog?
I am sure you will let us know if it does for some reason fail.
Thanks for sharing.
28 April 2014 at 9:31 pm #56558I have struck with a mallet and handle has survived.
I done a very small mortise which is pretty hard stuff.
The chisel is more like a pairing chisel and not really meant for that mortising.
I was more concerned about bending the blade.Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.2 May 2014 at 7:39 am #56686Your post, and Pauls blog post about chissel restoration most certainly have been an eye opener for me. I have an old chissel with a smashed handel, loose blade and the bevel also would need some work. Up until now I have never seen the potensial in this old tool, but now, seeing the perfect result you got with your chissel, I realize that it can be a tool for life! Thank you 🙂
2 May 2014 at 2:32 pm #56692I have well in fact most of my chisels are vintage Witherby’s, Buck Brothers, Greenlee, James Swan, I have enjoyed refurbishing and cleaning them up. A good portion of them needs new handles now I have to learn how to turn new handles.
Steve
Mark, that is one beautiful chisel you turned out. What kind of glue did you use for the splice? It will be interesting to see how the splice holds up as it is somewhat of an endgrain to endgrain glue up. If the tang extends into the spliced area I would expect it would provide some reinforcement. Please keep us posted.
I live in Canton, Ohio, USA.3 May 2014 at 1:06 pm #56712My concerns as well being end grain to end grain.
I used a low angle block plane and the both sides were as smooth as silk. So I hope the adhesion would be quite good.
I used Titebond II .Mark,
I’ve been away from the adhesive business for about 35 years and haven’t kept up on the technology. That being said, during my lunch hour at Franklin I was permitted to use the tools in the woodshop and made several items ranging from checkerboards to end tables. There have been no glue failures whatsoever using the original Titebond. One thing the quality control department stressed was to apply glue to both surfaces before joining. They would spread the glue out coating the entire surface. They said this was necessary because two boards could absorb the glue differently due to grain pattern, moisture content, etc. Paul’s technique of squiggling on one surface and then rubbing the boards together is a variation on this. I have tried it and have not been able to get 100% coverage on either piece so I still use a spreader. It may have to do with the size/spacing/tighness/uniformity of my squiggles. Too many variables for me. I have no doubt that Paul is successful using his method, but I have enough to learn in other areas so I will stick to spreading. -
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