Spatula with hole – tearout
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I’ve been doing a couple of these as Christmas gifts, last one in cherry. I’m having issues with tear out as I start to bore the hole with the brace and bit. I’m not sure if it’s because of the taper on my spatula? The bit? (It’s a new one purchased from lee valley), the speed of boring? I think more trial is in order, anyone else make one and have this issue? (The fix I’ve been using is just to roll out the edge of the hole with a file)
Ontario, Canada
hi Brian it sounds like its the bit try it on a bit of scrap at differing speeds
Eddy .. Liverpool, Merseyside, UK
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Hey Brian-
Is it best to drill the hole in your spatula blank before shaping?
Exactly what bit are you using?
-Scott Los Angeles
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=45003&cat=1,180,42240
Using a 3/4 one of these. I know they make a caution about dry hardwood, but cannot imagine i’ve subjected this new bit to this sort of abuse (yet…. Lol). As far as order of operations, I’m using Paul’s book as a guide and that’s the path it follows. I don’t mind how they come out, but it certainly would be nice to have a clean through hole as appears in the book.
Thanks for the input.Ontario, Canada
Hello Brian,
These bits are highly aggressive bits used in the construction trades and the thread is designed differently than the regular brace and bit bit. These bits have only one spur and so score the rim of the hole from one side of the bit only. This means that the adjacent ‘chisel’ edge that removes the actual waste from the hole is reaching the surface of the wood before the spur has chance to cut the rim. You will need to cut the whole before any shaping takes place, so that the surface is dead flat and not curved.
Thank you for the response Paul, and all, for the input.
Ontario, Canada
So I bought some ‘proper’ bits now from an antique market, I would have liked the whole set but not in budget right now. it seems funny to me that I could not find the proper type at lee valley. I will have to ask next time there. Next task is to find a file for sharpening. Paul’s book says to use a small triangle file.
Ontario, Canada
They sell Jennings pattern (Made in England) bits at Tools For Working Wood, but they cost $29-$49 dollars a bit!
Flea Markets or Tool Swaps are the best place to find them since you can carefully inspect. In the US, online dealers will ask up to $135 for a minty 13 piece set, or $75-$85 for a user set. I bought a boxed set of James Swan Jennings Pattern bits (small threads) for $30 at a tool swap, and I also bought another set of minty Greenlee Jennings Pattern bits on eBay for $50. I got a third set (don’t ask why) from a woodworker, complete in a canvas roll, for $60. At a garage sale I found another set (albeit a bit rusty) for $20. I de-rusted them and gave them to a friend.
I can never refuse a home to a good tool for a good deal. 😉
-Scott Los Angeles
These are ‘Gilpins cannock’ quick check on the google-box shows they may have come from the UK but not marked. Great condition, well formed point thread so it appears that these were well looked after. Maybe I’ll try and see if my wife may allow for an early Christmas gift and get the rest of the set tomorrow before they are gone.
Ontario, Canada
They look good. Be careful not to buy any with bent shafts. The smaller sizes are sometimes bent through misuse. Also make sure the threads are well formed and that the flukes are not sharpened away.
Aldren A. Watson’s chapter (5) on “Brace and Bits” in
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Hand Tools: Their Ways and Workings
has got to be the best chapter written (and beautifully illustrated) on the subject.
-Scott Los Angeles
Went back and got the rest ( I love my wife…) missing 3/8 in but oh we’ll… All flukes appear to be well formed still so ithink these have been used minimally or by someone that looked after them well. Anywho I know this has sort of change to a thread more fitted to the tool side. I do have that book Scott, thanks for reminding me.
Ontario, Canada
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