Stanley #5, flattening plane sole problem

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  • #716059
    Anders Pedersen
    Participant

    I’m trying to restore a Stanley #5 bought secondhand. When flattening the sole on 120 grid sandpaper I still got 1 – 3 millimetres around the mouth that’s not totally plane with the rest of the sole. (Please see photos)

    Is this a problem or can the plane function perfectly with this sole?

    Thanks in advance

    Anders

    Satanley_No5_Closeup

    Satanley_No5

    #716081
    Dave Ring
    Participant

    It might work OK but I’d keep working on it using coarser sandpaper (80 or 60 grit).

    Dave

    #716086
    Darren
    Participant

    I agree with Dave.

    I’d give it a taste of 60 or even 40 grit to clean up that odd patch to the left of the mouth and the area in front, and then use the plane. If you use 40, use some 80 and 120 afterwards, and smooth the edges of the plane at the end.

    You don’t need to get all the marks out to make a working plane.

    Also, are you sanding it fully assembled? The plane needs to be fully assembled as the pressure might distort the shape of the body, and you need to flatten it like that.

    Good luck

    Darren.

    #716097
    Larry Geib
    Participant

    Third guy with Dave. If you want to restore the mouth and not just flatten the sole, 120 grit is pretty fine to remove metal quickly. Don’t be bashful.

    I even opened up a 36 grit sanding belt a floor sander gave me to flatten a #7 that warped when I had it welded. ( they chuck them still pretty fresh) . That thing was like using a rasp 🙂 But with a smaller plane like a #5 , 60 grit is a good place to start. Even at that, it’s a bit of work. Play music.

    when you step up in grits after its flat it doesn’t take long at each grit to remove the scratch marks from the previous grit. How fine you go is aesthetics, not function, after 120 -150 grit or so. Use will quickly put scratches back.

    Of course, if all you are going to use it for is a Scrub or fore plane with a wide mouth anyway, all the work isn’t necessary, and even with finer cuts, a really sharp iron and finer cuts makes up for a lot of mouth issues.
    But a #5 you can use also as a panel smoother broadens your inventory . The finer cuts go better with a tighter mouth, especially at the ends of boards.

    If you can’t seem to quite get all the nicks in front of the mouth out, consider opening up the mouth a little and moving the frog forward. There is usually enough movement with the frog to allow some of that. The stuff right in back of the mouth doesn’t matter. It’s fussy work to get a well shaped mouth, though. Make sure the iron is in top form so you have something to test your filing to. Go slow and test often. Cast iron files quickly.

    #716237
    Mike Walsh
    Participant

    The plane will probably work for rough finishing. If you go against the grain or the grain direction changes you may experience tear out. The mouth in front of the plane blade presses down and supports the wood as the blade shaves it off.

    https://s3.amazonaws.com/finewoodworking.s3.tauntoncloud.com/app/uploads/2020/03/23203941/011282065-3-700×502.jpg

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