I recently got hold of an old beat up Stanley no78 off ebay, to try out as a scrub plane as Paul has suggested. It was no surprise that it indeed feels and works well in this role. However, I find that the plane sometimes gets choked up on shavings. Perhaps I’m taking too aggresive a cut, but if I open up the throat a little with a file maybe it might improve things? I am always reticent to take a file to a tool’s main body so wondered if anyone on the forum has tried using the 78 in this role?
1) move the lower part of the lever cap to the right so the “wing” on it deflects the entire shaving to the left. The cap can even project a smidge past the right side of the plane body, since you aren’t rebateing with it.
2) a small amount of sharpening of the lower end of the lever cap so shavings don’t catch isn’t out of order. Done neatly, it won’t look like a hack job, but an enhancement. If you are less neat, well, that’s what black paint is for.
3) center the crown on the iron a bit more to the left. Most clogging is caused by the shavings getting caught under the bridge that connects the front and rear of the plane. If you move the crown the plane won’t produce much of a shaving under the bridge. If step 1 and 2 don’t work, this might help.
Ok, 4. Sometimes the casting of the bridge is a bit rough or a gob of japanning obstructs the smooth passage of shavings. It should be smooth and sort of wedge shaped on its lower side to deflect shavings to the left. Try sanding that smoother ( see paint) . You can even wax that area when you wax the plane sole.
I had that issue on a Stanley 45.
I’ve never seen a #78 or any of its kin (180-182, 190-192, , 189, etc) with too tight a mouth.Look for other solutions.
I’m looking to convert my fillister plane to a scrub plane. Can anyone suggest where I can find the video which covers Paul’s explanation of how to go about it.
Thanks in anticipation.