Stuffed my saw
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6 November 2014 at 5:16 am #120645
Salko, if you still want it, here is a link to the Norse Woodsmith:
http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/content/hand-saw-basics
At the bottom of that page there are two links to other pages about sharpening saws. It’s an incredible amount of information. I’m new at sharpening my saws (and still need lots of practice), but I look forward to keeping to it and getting better at it. Best of luck.6 November 2014 at 5:29 am #120647Oh I know this site lol I have it bookmarked but I’m glad you gave me the link though I would never have thought it.
Btw as good as job he did I think he put a little too much set in it, it’s hard to getting used to it I feel like I’m relearning how to saw again.
8 November 2014 at 9:14 am #120721I had a similar experience today then jumped on here to see if I could find answers. The main problem I had was that the saw was nice and sharp but when i tried it out it cut to the left all the time and wouldn’t follow the line, when it gets deeper it starts to jam which makes sense because of the curved cut. After inspecting the saw and feeling with the finger tips I realised it’s caused by the tiny burr left over from sharpening all the teeth through from the same side.
I wouldn’t be surprised if this was the problem with your first attempt as well but we may never know now, maybe ask the guy who sharped it, he might have noticed the problem before correcting it..
In the video Paul said this would be ok for rip cut saws with fine teeth and that the burr goes away after the first few cuts. I haven’t found that to be the case, I’ve made quite a few cuts with it and it’s horrible. I think I might alternate and only cut through on every second tooth then flip the blade around in the vise and cut the others from the opposite direction. This is what I used to do years ago when I was a teenager and it worked fine. I’d rather be woodworking than mucking around with saws though, it’s frustrating, I feel your pain. Paul makes everything look so easy, I get all excited to try something new after watching him and it always seems to end in frustration and hard work for me plus a wasted day or whole weekend.
8 November 2014 at 11:28 am #120722I undeerstand where your coming from Andrew but that’s normal that’s the learning curve, you must be patient when it comes to knowledge. You must spend the time to put theory into practice and you must allow time to take it’s course. Rome wasn’t built in a day and not everyday is a good even for the professionals.
8 November 2014 at 5:06 pm #120725Hi Matt
Thank you for getting the web site. I realy messed that up. It a great site every one should take a look at it. Also Logan cabnet shop
I know Bob a little bit he is a good teacher its another site you can learn a lot from.
Frankj8 November 2014 at 5:19 pm #120726Andrew and Salko
After you sharpen and set a saw stone it.
You wet a stone not your D plate an old oil stone, then wip it down the side of the teeth only one or two times. That is if its giving you a problum. This removes the ber and levels the teeth on larger teeth it may need another stroke or two but don’t over do it.
Frankj
.Guys, here’s a link to a video I watched on how to sharpen saws. I think I have seen everyone’s video but this is the most detailed. It is a couple of hours long, so get a drink and sit back.
The gentleman in the video goes by Brit on the Lumberjocks site. I don’t know him, but I owe him a pint.
Regarding the sharpening of saws: I suggest on trying to sharpen a big 6-8ppi saw with rip teeth using a 6″ or 7″ file. The teeth would be big enough for you to see what you’re doing and there are enough of them that you can mess up a few and still have some good.
Old junky 8ppi saws are quite common here in my part of the US. Even if you don’t have one at hand, any piece of straight metal should work for you to practice shaping teeth and then sharpening them. The trick is to get the point of the tooth sharp. A rip cut is straight across so that makes it easier.
Best of luck.
11 November 2014 at 9:41 am #120825I stoned the edge after re-cutting, shaping, and sharpening the teeth. Works brilliantly now, thanks for the suggestion Frank, I actually did do this but at first it showed no improvement, I was reluctant to do it too much as in all the videos I’ve watched of Paul I don’t think he ever mentioned it.
I didn’t use a stone though, my old oil stone is way too dished. I used my 600 DMT diamond with the saw laid flat on the edge of the bench and the diamond plate held straight in a forward motion while most of the diamond plate was on the bench.
I’m pretty happy with myself now and learned a lot. I didn’t want to give in and end up taking it to a saw sharpener or I might not have learned a thing.
I’ve sharpened quite a few times over the years and I think I always end up having to do this to get them to cut straight. My saw is about 18tpi. I remember Paul saying that you don’t have to worry about the burr on small teeth as it will wear off in use but I find I always have to do it when I sharpen from one side only as Paul did in the video.
I think he should perhaps mention it in a future saw sharpening video, I think he is working on some in the future. It would have saved me some stress.
I now have the best performing saw I’ve ever used, the progressive rake works great, it was an old rusty no name but it now works way better than my hardly used Veritas which I’ve hated since I got it because the handle is too big for my hands (and my hands are big) plus it’s all shiny and new my hand just slips around in use.
Anyway, thanks guys.
Have fun.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.11 November 2014 at 3:18 pm #120834Hi Andrew
Glad the you tried the trick on stoneing the saw. It works very well. But Do Not us the D plates or good stones. The sharp ber can mess up your stones.
If your old stone is dished no probluem. Use the end or sides or crosswise,
As with a lot of things a little bit is enough.
Just wipe the stone down the side no rubbing
Only one or tow times max try the saw if its still pulling do it again. But that is about it.
If after two tryes its still pulling go to the hammers,again this is a tap not a hit. Review Paulls vid. On this first, he explains it very well as he allways dose.
FrankjI’m new to sharpening saws also. Got an old tenon saw working better than it was, I think it needs a bit more set though and I had to straighten the saw as it had a bend in it. Took the rust off, gave it some oil. The handle is cracked so it moves around a bit I’ll need to try and fix that at some stage.
I also have a new saw (panel saw) and that’s my benchmark for the Tenon saw. So I’ll just keep working on it till it’s as good as the panel saw. There’s no substitute for trying, failing and learning.
I have a Stanely No.4 that I picked up on ebay. I’ve actually spent hours trying to get it to work well, because I’m inexperienced. But now the sole is flat, the tote is rock solid, the chip breaker sits perfectly on the iron, the iron is flat on the back, I have a 30ish degree bevel with a camber on the sides and holy moly it works well. Did I have lots of set backs, yup… did it take 10 times as long to get it working as someone who knows what they’re doing, yup… but it’s the best thing ever!
10 March 2015 at 9:07 pm #125431Ron Herman’s videos are first rate. He’s a third-generation house wright and has years of real, hands-on experience. Like Paul, he is a natural, and superior, teacher.
10 March 2015 at 10:16 pm #125432Funny you mentioned him I watched all his videos last week a truly educated man a wood nerd in his own right. I found them on popular woodworking site but you have to pay to see them but they are excellent upto 2 1/2 hrs each.
I can’t edit my post from above, but I see it has no link. Here is the information I tried to pass on four months ago:
I still owe him a pint.
jude et al,
The video you linked to is the best. Herman and the late Tom Law videos are good , but not nearly as complete and detailed as this one by far.
So get out the tea or adult beverage and settle in.
Thanks for posting, I’m sure it will help.
Best,
Craig -
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