Tight Depth Adjustment Screw on Record No. 5
- This topic has 5 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 3 years ago by
.
-
Posts
-
Hello,
I recently purchased a second-hand Record No. 5, in seemingly good condition. The one issue I have is that the depth adjustment screw becomes increasingly difficult to turn as I increase depth of cut.
I have the lever cap set to the same tightness as my other Stanley and Record planes, which is a solid, single thumb pull down to set – and these planes all have easy, smooth depth adjustment. So, I’m pretty confident I haven’t overtightened the lever cap. If I release the lever cap screw enough to smoothly adjust depth when set, the blade will move laterally – it will not remain set.
I’m a bit stumped by this – has anyone had a similar problem, and been able to solve it?
Cheers,
JPAssuming the threads on the adjuster screw aren’t gummed up,
Make sure the frog isn’t adjusted so far back that the blade hits the plane body as you lower the blade.
That would cause what you describe.Hi Larry,
Thanks for your reply. I’ve double checked the frog location – the blade is not hitting the plane body as descends, and the adjuster screw thread is clean. Still a mystery… I might give everything another good clean and oil tonight and see if it makes any difference.
Cheers,
JPRun the adjuster lo the way in both directions without the iron or lever cap in the plane. It should bottom out, ad you should be able to remove it completely.
Remember the adjuster knob moves to the rear of the plane to lower the iron.Is the blade even touching the plane body as it descends?
I’m not talking about the plane body stopping the iron cold.
What I’m referring to is that it is lifted off the frog surface and causing binding against the lever cap.Whether you think it’s binding or not, try setting the frog a little bit forward from its current position so the blade doesn’t event touch the body.
I just looked to see what Paul has to say, and he has two blog postings called
“Understating the frog in your throat” ( and part II). the two pictures below are from those..
The first shows a properly adjusted frog. Note that the back of iron doesn’t touch the body. The second he posted to exaggerate a close mouth, but it also shows the iron lifted off the frog by the body. Make sure that isn’t happening.Read the original post and Part II, including the comments. It’s of god stuff there.
Near the end of the comments in part II he discusses the issue answering a comment. Below is also a screen shot of the exchange.One other thing is to take the frog off completely to make sure there isn’t debris under it.
And if you still have issues, post pictures. I’m out of guesses.
Check
– there is no burr on the back of the cutting iron or on the frog that might prevent a smooth sliding;
– there is no burr on the top of the cap iron or on the underside of the lever-cap (including the spring under the lever-cam) that might prevent a smooth sliding.My plane adjustment worked much more smoothly after filing and sanding the edges of the various parts (including the slot of the cutting iron). Put also some oil between the moving parts. (the ‘cutting-iron/cap-iron assembly’ must move sandwiched between the frog and the lever-cap)
Those parts were probably stamped which had left a small burr at the edges. (SylverXYZ… plane)Hi Larry and Benoit,
Thanks for your suggestions, i’ll pull the plane apart again this week to check clearance, check for burrs and re-oil.
Cheers,
JP
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
