Tool Identification Help
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Hi,
I bought a box of old tools at the weekend, from the relative of an old carpenter.
Can anyone tell me what these are:
IMG_0311.jpg – some sort of iron?
IMG_0027.PNG – do they go in this plough(?) plane?
IMG_0313.jpg – There were a lot of moulding planes in the box like this one.
IMG_0314.jpg – What is the bit of wood sticking out of the bottom for?
Thanks
Darren.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.5 September 2017 at 1:22 am #315513Looks like you have some great new toys.
1) most of the irons in the first picture are for a plough plane. The ‘hooks’ are to aid in retracting the cutters. They allow you to tap “up” during adjustment.
The irons with the holes drilled in them might be knickers for the same plough plane for use across grain.
See if one of your unmentioned planes has a metal skate and a fence. They are probably for that tool.
2) It is possible the irons are for that plane, though I can’t tell if the irons fit in the mortise and wedge. The plane probably should have a metal skate when looked at from the other side, like this example
3 ( and 4?) The wood “stick’ is a piece of harder wood ( usually box wood) that normally fits in a grove the plane makes. It has better wear characteristics and is replaceable. Yours looks a bit haggard, either a poor replacement or a worn piece.
Good replacements are boxwood, persimmon, ebony, cocobolo, olive, lignum vitae, or any other very hard wood. Usually, a properly boxed plane will have the grain of the boXing parallel to the mouth or bed angle of the iron and are glued with hide glue, which is reversible.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.5 September 2017 at 1:25 am #315515Looks like you have some great new toys.
1) most of the irons in the first picture are for a plough plane. The ‘hooks’ are to aid in retracting the cutters. They allow you to tap “up” during adjustment.
The irons with the holes drilled in them might be knickers for the same plough plane for use across grain.
See if one of your unmentioned planes has a metal skate and a fence. They are probably for that tool.
2) It is possible the irons are for that plane, though I can’t tell if the irons fit in the mortise and wedge. The plane probably should have a metal skate when looked at from the other side, like this example below.
3 ( and 4?) The wood “stick’ is a piece of harder wood ( usually box wood) that normally fits in a grove the plane makes. It has better wear characteristics and is replaceable. Yours looks a bit haggard, either a poor replacement or a worn piece.
Good replacements are boxwood, persimmon, ebony, cocobolo, olive, lignum vitae, or any other very hard wood. Usually, a properly boxed plane will have the grain of the boXing parallel to the mouth or bed angle of the iron.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Hi Darren,
Sorry for being very, very late on the scene. The first photo shows plough plane irons (cutters). You might even have a full set of irons. Check the top of the irons for numbers. They will be numbered from 1- 8 if you have a full set. One of the numbers (2) is just visible. You just have to find the plough plane to go with it now – it should have a metal skate as Larry showed in his photo.Your second photo is a sash fillester plane (a skewed rebate plane type) – used to cut the rebate on the back of window sashes (frames of windows) into which the glass panes fitted. The modern equivalent to this plane is the metal Veritas Skew Rebate Plane – quite a costly plane. I hope that the blade is not badly pitted as the plane could clean up quite nicely. You would need to replace the wedge on the back arm but that would be pretty easy. It would be very useful as a skewed rebate plane for all kinds of rebates.
The third and fourth photos are of a rather battered and probably badly worn “beading” plane, used to put a decorative bead on the edges of doors, furniture and household timber trims. Alternatively it may be a profile moulding plane but with a bead incorporated into the profile. It may have a number visible on the back which would indicate the size of the bead formed. However, because these older wooden planes were adjusted by hitting the back face with a hammer – often this is no longer visible in the deformed end grain. Drive the iron out through the bottom of the plane (don’t try to pull the wooden wedge out first) and check whether the whole plane is worth salvaging. Other wise the beech wood will be useful for making wedges for other wooden planes so don’t throw it away.
I hope that this helps a little.
Cheers
Mark H -
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