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20 June 2018 at 3:03 am #548622
What a neat little router! I would use it without trying to repair it. The moment you put heat on it to braze or weld it it will become weaker at that spot. I was told by a welder once that any cast iron that needed to welded had to be heated red hot for a successful weld job. It will take an experienced welder to make the attempt and it may warp with the heat. Either way it’s not broken yet, if it does break then you have no choice but to try and fix it, if you try and repair it first you may never get to even use it.
15 June 2018 at 3:01 am #548553I’ve had the same issue, I bought a set of very expensive Lie Nielsen chisels thinking it was a chisel quality issue and still had the same problem. It was only after I ground down to the “good steel” when the problem disappeared. What I found was on the Lie Nielsen website where sometimes the metal does not get hardened to the tip. In the same article from Lie Nielsen they mention the difficulty of making sure the steel is uniform throughout the manufacturing process. They don’t make a paring chisel because of the difficulties of producing a long chisel. ( especially a narrow chisel) that is uniform in hardness. That’s why I went to Narex for my paring chisels. The price is very reasonable, they know what they are doing! The handles need tuning (for me) but that’s easy to do.
19 May 2018 at 6:33 am #547956I’m very anal when sharpening chisels. It drives me nuts when they look out of square. I have put them up to my square to see if the edge is parallel many times and have spent a lot of time trying to get it perfect.
I think that if it becomes a skew chisel then you might have a problem, unless you want a skew chisel. I have this problem with narrow chisels mostly, they are the most difficult ones to sharpen.
So what is your application? If your chopping some delicate dovetails and yor chisel is out of square one part of the knife wall will be deeper on one side than the other. By what amount, depends on the width of the chisel right? How abought a mortise, what’s the difference in the bottom of a mortise? It’s certainly not going to be a huge amount and you won’t see it anyway. My mortise bottoms are pretty choppy anyway, if I wanted it perfect I’d use a (gasp) electric router with a carbide router bit.
So the last thing I can think of is a stopped groove or dado where you need a square corner and your chisel can’t clear out the “fuzzy bits”.
So then you need to go and square up that tool so it will work for you.
In other words don’t obsess about it too much until it becomes a problem for you, get on with your project! After some practice you will make your chisels do what you want.19 May 2018 at 6:01 am #547955Why are you asking? Is it a perceived value your looking for?
Whatever the wood may be is often very difficult to identify and can be only a best guess as to what the wood really is. I’ve seen popular that looks like walnut, it’s often very hard to accurately tell what a wood species really is.19 May 2018 at 5:37 am #547954So I own about 30 different makes of chisels, one set was very expensive (Lie Nielsen). I own craftsman (sears) which were very inexpensive. All of them work well for me. I also bought a set of Narex chisels, the steel is excellent you can’t go wrong.
I used to sell metal cutting tools so I know a little bit about metallurgy. When Lie Nielsen decided not to make long paring chisels because of the difficulties of manufacturing a consistent hardness throughout a long length of steel I bought the Narex paring chisels.
The handles are terrible for me, but that is a matter of personal preference. They are a steal (pun intended) the fit of the handles and finish are not ideal for me. Make new handles if you need to, polish the backs and the mill marks out on the faces if that’s what you like but the chisels are the real deal at very reasonable prices.
As far as sizes go I have found that metric sizes can be handy to have around. Sometimes you need that size difference, a 1/2” chisel doesn’t make a 1/2” mortise, it’s going to be bigger. A slightly smaller size can be a handy thing.
Bottom line, in my opinion you can’t go wrong with the Narex as manufactured today.17 May 2018 at 2:42 pm #547879I have cut part of my fingers off in a table saw incident. I have scars from hand tools most certainly not as serious. I use both power tools and hand tools today. (I couldn’t agree more with the Jig saw comments). Both kinds of tools have their place in woodworking.
As a former “power tool only” woodworker, most of the time I try and use hand tools today. Much more satisfying, much more accurate and you really get a feel for how the wood is reacting. What a great hobby!17 April 2018 at 12:43 pm #527734Glad I’m not alone in my saving cutoffs or scraps of different wood.
Some are quite useless end cuts with snipes or checks,pieces with knots, wood that has warped beyond use. I throw them into a cardboard box and burn them in the fire pit on a regular basis.
Even small pieces of wood can be very useful and can save you from cutting into a larger piece. Sometimes I make tool holders to hang different tools, I make wood plugs and I just used some popular for stickers for some wood that I’m drying. I make wedges, glue blocks anything that will be useful and save me time later on a project. I do this when I only have an hour or so to work in the shop. Having said that sometimes I get ankle deep in all that valuable wood and have to clean them out, not often enough I suppose. Right now I have a piles of scraps laying around. When and if it ever stops snowing and the weather gets nice I’ll open all the doors and windows and do my Spring Cleaning!17 April 2018 at 12:15 pm #527722I had to look it up at Woodfinder just to see what it was.
I think here we call it Lauan when we use it in plywood and their are several different types. Here in the U.S. it’s known as a inexpensive subsitute for Mahogany or Philippine Mahogany even though it’s not a true Mahogany.
Like you said it’s free! Have some fun with it and show us what you made with it.26 March 2018 at 7:22 pm #508743Sure you can make a living being a woodworker! First you need to develop the skills to design and make unique things. You need to develop good business skills and have a strong work ethic. For myself it will be a sideline that I enjoy rather than something I depend on to make a living. I built cabinets for kitchens in the 1980s and it quickly became like any other work one might do for a living with all the demands of any other job.
22 March 2018 at 5:08 pm #505606Thank you for the explanation! I confess I had to think about it for awhile but it makes sense to me now. I have had 11” oak boards split on me while they were in a stack and not restrained so I’m a bit sensitive to wood movement. Ive seen all these pictures of different woods dovetailed together and wondered how long they would last.
10 March 2018 at 11:43 am #494423One thing to note about tightbond 2 is people have had trouble with glue creep. Under some conditions like heat the glue can plastisisise and wooden parts have been known to move. I’ve heard stories from luthiers finding guitar parts coming apart with this type of glue, just one of the reasons they use Hyde glue.
Now I haven’t heard of any problems with titebond 3, as one of the fellows above mentioned that he used that for a toolbox and had no problems in all kinds of weather.
I guess someone could start a new topic about glues! Each type has its purpose and uses.7 March 2018 at 12:59 pm #491949I agree with all that’s been said but it’s not what I meant.
You wouldn’t say Paul has “retired”. He seems to me to be working hard if not harder than he ever has. He most certainly has not “withdrawn from active working life”.
A growing number of people have the opportunity and freedom to do what they like and are becoming more engaged with life, it’s a choice that you make.
I’m not withdrawing from life but I’m not working either!
It sounds very pretentious for me to say I’m a lifestyle woodworker as I’m still learning the craft. I’m going to school but not in the traditional manner as it doesn’t exist in a formal setting. Most certainly we are Paul’s virtual apprentices.
I guess I’ll just tell people I’m going back to school to pursue another career. I’ll know I’ve graduated when I can design and sell my own stuff.28 February 2018 at 12:50 am #486194Interesting that you prefer the well in the back. What problems did you encounter with the well in the middle? Seems to me it would be best to saw down the glue line. Your going to have to resurface all sides anyway. I really dont think it matters much as the glue bond is as strong as the wood and your only changing the dimension by a saw kerf.
15 January 2018 at 10:35 pm #439716As close as I can remember:
You can see the blood there but not to worry, I caught a splinter but I’m not going to cry about it.
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