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26 February 2020 at 5:50 pm #650686
There is no point in using BLO if you won’t let it sink into the wood. It will create a sticky mess on the surface. That is the purpose of oil finishes. They eventually dry in the wood.
1 September 2019 at 2:01 am #604455I replied nearly three years ago, so an update is in order. I will admit I probably don’t use the 10″ to it’s full potential and a nine inch would probably be fine. However, I don’t regret having bought the 10″ and would likely do it again if I needed to.I will say that the eclipse vises are well enough made to function at a level that a pro would not be ashamed of, and would likely last the entire working life of anyone.I found that I like the softer poplar for jaw liners as opposed to hard maple.They grip much better and cause no damage to what is being worked on. I use paraffin on the rods and the screw and it is as smooth as can be without attracting dirt or gumming up the operation. I also backed off the quick release lever spring one notch to make it more user friendly.I use this vise daily.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 7 months ago by bobleistner.
21 June 2019 at 1:07 am #583017You can adjust the spring pressure and the handle angle a small amount on the eclipse vise.I’ve had mine for a couple years now but I recall backing off the spring one notch. It made it more comfortable to use. You don’t want to go too far because it won’t want to stay engaged with the vise screw and will damage the threads. It is a good vise though.It will easily be a lifetime tool for even the youngest member on here.
26 September 2018 at 3:24 am #552322After thinking about this, if you do not tighten the screw between the chip breaker and the blade tight enough, the blade can get shoved up under the chip breaker and it will do just as you are describing. The chip breaker will be trying to shave the wood and it can’t, so it will bounce on the surface.
26 September 2018 at 3:16 am #552320Sharp fixes 97% of all problems with all woodworking tools.An old saying packed with wisdom. On a bevel down plane the angle (up to about 38-40 degrees) has more effect on durability of the edge. remember the wood shaving is flowing over the top of the blade and has no idea what is going on underneath. The chip breaker can help with very fine shavings if it is set close (.o1o-.o6o”) but makes the plane harder to push. You usually will find that your shaving is accordian like coming out of the mouth. Setting the chip breaker back more than an 1/8″ pretty much eliminates any value from it.Don’t attempt to set the mouth tight and the chip breaker close at the same time, it will just clog and give you trouble. So,sharpen the blade until you feel the burr, set the mouth back to about an 1/8″ gap and set the chip breaker at about a 1/16″ and you should be able to get a general shaving out of it.
6 March 2018 at 4:20 pm #491250I think you have some sort of Franken-plane going on there. Pre ’39 5 1/2 were 2 1/4″ and there was the #5 1/4 that had a 1 3/4″ blade, but the 4 1/2 were all 2 3/8″ blades. Stanley also was not micrometer perfect with their measurements so that is another place people get all twisted about. If 2 3/8″ doesn’t fit, then you may have a frog from another plane.
19 December 2016 at 2:03 am #143485If you compare apples to apples, it makes a big difference.
An Eclipse 9″ is less than 5 pounds lighter than a 10″ Eclipse.
I would still buy the 10″ Eclipse (I did) because a bigger vise can do all the work of the smaller one but not vice versus.
Bob L
10″ vise-39 lbs
9″ vise-34.2 lbs.23 August 2016 at 2:51 pm #139619I would saw it back in half right on the break. That will give you a good, clean surface to reglue and should make the repair almost invisible. You may need to shorten the threaded rod, holding the handle on.The handle not being firmly held to the plane seems to be how they get broken in the first place. Bob L.
18 August 2016 at 1:20 am #139426I have to work with a concrete floor as well. I bought a horse stall mat (3’x5′) to make it easier on my knees and back. One day I dropped a chisel and realized a second benefit of the mat. I went and bought a second mat and cut it in half lengthwise and place it under the “back” side of my bench for protection,just in case. Sorry about your 4 1/2, I love mine.The mats cost about $25 at any farm and fleet store. Bob L.
18 August 2016 at 1:09 am #139425For something like that , yes, a grinder would be my first choice. If a grinder is not available then start with 80 grit and get the thing to proper shape quickly. All the other grits should do nothing but remove previous scratches to make a sharper edge possible. Once you move on from 80 grit you should have an edge, abet a rough edge. Bob L.
18 August 2016 at 12:56 am #139424Parafin is what I use. You can buy blocks of it (USA) in the canning section of your grocer. It is very affordable and can be used to lubricate most anything in a woodshop without attracting dust and sludging up. All the moving parts on your power machines will thank you for it. The screws on planes, handsaw blades and clamps like it too. Bob L.
6 August 2016 at 12:31 am #139162One mistake that I made and wish to tell you. Don’t waste your time just practicing joints. Make them into something,anything. You’ll end up with a useful something and get the practice.Even if it is for your shop to hold pencils,drill bits, chisels,ect. At least it is more constructive than a bunch of scrap pieces laying around.You’ll always have them(boxes) around to see how far you’ve come. Bob L.
5 August 2016 at 2:58 am #139122Good for you! Now when you get to practice joint #1111, you should be a master dovetailer.
Bob L.3 August 2016 at 3:06 am #139022Look at the No. 4’s that you see Mr Sellers using. Find yourself one or more of the same. They are very affordable and very abundant. Try to make sure it is, say, pre 1960ish with wood handles and black paint.
Bob L.3 August 2016 at 2:48 am #139021Try rolling an edge with a quality drill bit. If it works, your burnisher is too soft. I’ve been using a piston connecting pin for many years.But that’s because I’m a mechanic and a cheapskate. : )
Bob L. -
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