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The glue doesn’t need air to dry as such, it just needs to have the moisture removed as it evaporates. The vacuum will do that. Keeping it in a sealed bottle only allows a certain amount of moisture to evaporate into the bottle, once the air becomes saturated with the moisture no more can evaporate and the glue in the bottle stops “drying”.
Thanks Sven-Olof,
That’s a great idea. I actually want to face joint them rather than edge joint them. But it looks like I could achieve the same effect if I made one of the longer sides of the device a wedge instead so it provided pressure to the face.
Inspired by your calculations, I did a little more math and worked out on a 203cm board 14cm wide, the vacuum bag was the equivalent of evenly placing 287kg of weight on the boards. That’s probably enough pressure to force a laminate onto a board, but maybe not enough to press two 19mm thick boards together.
I’ll have a think about how to adapt your device for face gluing or see if I can find some way to use the dog holes in my bench with some form of holdfast to provide pressure on one edge against the bench while I use the clamps on the other edge.
Thanks again for your response and ideas.
Regards,
Laci
Hi Joe,
Great idea. I think that may be something I look at as well. Firstly to prevent the wood joints from getting sealed before the glued up with the dye (unlikely but why take the chance) and then with the glue up to protect from squeeze out over stained pieces.
Thanks
Laci
Thanks, Ed.
The tin has no solids in it, it looks like a black coffee that’s slightly transparent. Maybe it would be better to put a single coat of tung oil on first as a barrier coat, then use the dye as you suggested. The manufacturer actually suggests doing that for porous woods. I’m happier with a slower, but a more controlled process, so putting 2 or 3 coats of stain on to slowly build up to what I want sounds like it would be worth doing.
Thanks again
Laci
Thanks, Ed.
I appreciate the time you took to put this all down. The ‘Stain’ I’m using is spirit based and needs to be given a top coat after or it can be added to a clear varnish for a 1 step process. On that basis, I think it’s what you’re calling a dye.
I think you summed it up with the “…it depends.”. My main concern I guess was that with the assembled table, my application method allowed for unseen drips or runs to form. Essentially that is my own poor control of the process, which is why I thought I’d do the dying while unassembled as it would be easier to control that way as the table top had no problem at all.
I also used the dye neat, except for the end grain where I put straight Methylated Spirits on the wood first then used a diluted dye to try and stop it absorbing far too much dye to match the faces. Much the same way as you coat with water first. I’ll try this over the whole job next time and give it 2 or 3 lighter coats of dye to build up to the finish I’m after. Hopefully, any drops or runs (not that I will have them this time :)) will be easier to feather or remove if the dye is not as heavy.
Once again, thanks for the advice Ed. It’s been added to the ‘Useful things to know and think about’ file.
Regards,
Laci
Phil,
I just wanted to let you know that your suggestions worked a treat. Didn’t have to move the frog much and if I planed the end grain straight after sharpening instead after I did the edges and faces I got a nice smooth cut. I just need to practice keeping it square!
Thanks again,
Laci
G’day Phil,
Thanks for the info. I do strop the blade using some honing compound and tried to skew the plane or use the circular motion that Paul suggests.
I did move the frog forward when I initially set up the plane, but I’ll have another look at it as I may not have moved it forward far enough for the end grain.
I’ll also give it a go straight after sharpening the blade. I’ve just realised after reading your advice that I typically try to plane the ends after having worked on the faces and edges first, so maybe I need to do the ends first with a fresh edge.
Regards,
Laci
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