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19 May 2019 at 3:18 pm #572039
“Ace” cuts straight and quickly, and the handle is much more comfortable now.
There’s a tooth (or two, or more) out of line near the heel, so the saw catches when I use a full stroke. There’s still plenty of plate for cutting with, so until I get to it, I take a shorter stroke.
The only time binding was an issue was cutting some 5 1/2″ tenon cheeks into 2×6 pine that had some internal stress. The kerf cupped and bound the saw.
I use Paul’s technique of making a knife-wall full ’round on cross-cuts, and tear out isn’t an issue.
I spent some time digging around the internet looking for your saw, but couldn’t find a definite match. Stanley uses a similar bolt pattern, but the handle shape and wheat detail are different.18 May 2019 at 2:20 pm #571250My saw has a “Warranted Superior” medallion on it, but it is one I purchased new about 20 years ago. I can’t find any maker’s marks on the plate or handle. Cross-cut, 10tpi, can be resharpened. Not a bad saw once you get it cleaned up (disassemble, acetone the plate, round the handle a bit & put it all back). Then again, I’ve never used a “good” saw, so maybe I just don’t know any better.
It looks like Ace Hardware still has it available online Ace 26 in. Steel Contractor Handsaw but I do not see a medallion on the new one.
Just one more way to save $0.05 on each saw I suppose.After removing most of the original finish (plate & handle), rounding the handle edges & applying several coats of wax I ended up with this:
[attachment file=”571251″]
[attachment file=”571252″]
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.17 May 2019 at 1:37 pm #569982Nicely done!
How thick did you end up making the new handle?
How did you cut the handle to inset the saw plate?Help identifying:
Were there any additional holes in the plate when you removed the plywood handle?
What part of the world was it bought in?I have a “Warranted Superior” saw from a local hardware store that’s about 20 years old now.
They still carry the same (as near as I can tell) make & model (different nut pattern than yours).
Maybe you could start there?9 May 2019 at 1:00 pm #559245I’m really glad to see this subject come up!
I’ve been using Norton waterstones (200, 1000, 4000/8000) and a Shapton 30000 for all of my sharpening. The 200 doesn’t see much use, great for shaping, overkill for sharpening.
I’ve been contemplating investing in some DMT continuous bench stones, but I think I’ll keep my Nortons. The Shapton is a splash & go that I keep dry when not in use. I store each NORTON in it’s own plastic bin with lid, covered with water. They’ve been stored that way for ~10 years now (changing the water at each use) with no ill effect on the stones that I can detect, and they are always ready to go.
NOTE: Clean/flatten the stones after each use & change the water. Leaving them with bits of steel/iron on them while in water will stain them (DOH! Lesson learned).Flattening process that I use after each session (YMMV, disclaimers, etc):
I always have swarf streaks on my stones when I’m done sharpening, so I use them to determine when I’m done flattening (swarf gone = stone flat)All of the following are done under a constant stream of water.
Scrub the used surface of the stone with my Norton flattening stone (large motions, use the whole of both stones). Each time I check to see if the swarf has been removed, I turn the stone 180 degrees to minimize skewing due to poor technique.
Get all of the stones flattened (swarf streaks gone).
This leaves a rough “factory finish” on the stones that will scratch the heck out of my mirrors. To dress (smooth) the now flattened stones:
I rub the 1k against the 4k and then the 8k surfaces (4/8 combination stone). This gets the 1k back to a 1k surface, and while the 4/8 stone may not be all the way back to 4/8, it’s much closer than the flattening stone finish.
Next up, I rub the 4k & 30K together. This gets the 4k back to it’s 4k self, and greatly improves the surface of the 30k(again compared to the “factory finish” from the flattening stone).
Finally, it’s the 8k & 30k to bring the 8k to its full spec & further improve the 30k.
Dressing each face only takes ~30 seconds.I know it’s not perfect, and I imagine there are more than a few that are cringing at the thought of contaminating a higher grit stone with lower grit particles – I get it. Really, I do. But I don’t have the cash to buy a 2nd set of stones so that 1k only ever touches 1k, etc.
Constant running water & thorough rinsing are the best I have for now.About the “mirror finish” – A mirror finish indicates that the surface is smooth, with tiny (if any) scratches in it. but that doesn’t mean that it’s flat. A sphere can be given a mirror finish.
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