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7 October 2016 at 4:09 pm #141223
For the workbench, here’s Paul’s post on dimensions: https://paulsellers.com/2012/06/making-the-workbench-7/
For the most part, make them up based on the space you have available. And add extra height. I built my first bench too low and had to add a spacer between the legs. It’s better to cut off height as you get used to it.
7 October 2016 at 4:05 pm #141221Paul has a basic tool list here: https://paulsellers.com/2011/12/my-essential-tools/
As someone who bought ALL the tools early on, and then sold them all a year later (long story), only to buy some again a few months ago, I recommend:
1. Good marking tools are the most important things to have.
2. After that, buy the basic tools you need to complete a specific project. For each new project, buy only the tools you need. This keeps costs down and helps you build up a toolkit over time.
3. Don’t be tempted to buy the best, or newest planes. Second hand ones are cheaper and often better.
4. DO spend money on new, good saws. Paul will disagree, but he’s sharpened thousands of saws. As a beginner you want a sharp saw you don’t have to worry about for a year.25 October 2014 at 9:27 pm #120124I’m a leftie, and my own bench has the vice on the right hand side. When I worked in Paul’s workshop all his vices were on the left (for right handed people) and I found this didn’t affect the way I worked.
What I did notice was the way I stored my tools. My tendency is to store the tools I’m using to the left of my vice, where they’re easily in reach by my dominant left hand. Working on a right handed bench means all your tools get in the way of the vice, so you tend to spend more time than you should moving things around.
So, for ease of use, I’d put my vice on the right. But it won’t make any difference to the way you work wood.
23 July 2014 at 10:08 am #59678@andyingermany there are a couple of decent car-boot sales in and around York, but I’ve never seen any router planes for sale.
You can try these car boots:
http://www.yorkcarboot.com/
http://giantbootfairs.com/wetherby-racecourse-sunday (about 10 miles outside York)I live near York so if you find one on eBay, I’d be happy to receive it and drop it off for you.
23 July 2014 at 9:54 am #59677I glued my plates down using a clear silicone sealer, so if I need to remove them I simply pull them out and peel the glue off. It doesn’t leave any marks and if you’re careful you can put the plates back down on the same glue when you’re done (it doesn’t hold the plates, but it acts as a non-slip cushion).
The key is to cut a recess in your backing board so even if the glue and the plate are separated the plate will still be held in place by the step in the board.
Oh, and the continuous plates are well worth the money. When I was on Paul’s foundation course I seem to remember him advising against using plates with an interrupted surface.
20 February 2014 at 10:30 am #2811326. Don’t panic! 10 minutes is usually plenty of time for a glue-up.
20 February 2014 at 10:27 am #28112This is going to be a great looking gate when it’s done. Thanks for adding yet another idea to my project list Mark.
18 February 2014 at 7:26 pm #28022Update: my wife says I can’t sell the kids to buy teak, so I’m going to go with Iroko instead.
18 February 2014 at 7:16 am #28007Thanks Steve, it looks like Teak is going to be my best bet, if I can buy it locally at a decent price.
I’ll keep you posted.
17 February 2014 at 2:39 pm #27946Pity about the smell, but it’ll probably dissipate over time. It’s a great looking table!
10 February 2014 at 2:43 pm #27594Even if a copper pipe had the strength to hold down your workpiece, I’m not sure it would withstand being hit by a hammer.
My guess is it would collapse/bend as soon as you try locking your holdfast down.
10 February 2014 at 11:18 am #27590In my garage (concrete floor) I put down the old laminate flooring from our kitchen, with a dampproof layer and a layer of cheap insulation. It makes a world of difference.
17 January 2014 at 9:37 am #26083I had exactly the same problem with my 22mm chisel when I bought my Narex’s, so I sharpened it to 30 degrees instead of the default 25.
I’m not sure what impact this has on using a chisel, but it seems to be doing the job just fine and is holding its edge much longer.
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