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24 June 2015 at 4:26 am #127982
Also what angle is your blade sharpened at? If too high on the last sharpening its possible that the heel of the bevel is touching before the edge? That would be pretty rare I would think, but I’ve seen it before on used planes.
24 June 2015 at 4:17 am #127980Did your frog shift back? Can you see the blade protruding through the sole if you flip it over and sight down the sole?
17 February 2015 at 7:28 pm #124765Could you make an angled piece of wood as an auxiliary fence for your rabbet plane that would tilt the plane over to the required angle?
16 February 2015 at 6:20 am #124699Nothing like something like this to make you remember to mark the waste when you lay out 🙂
11 February 2015 at 2:21 am #124555I’d be careful using pine for the drawer sides, as its pretty soft and will wear on the bearing surface between the bottom and where it rides on the bearer. At the least I would use pine for the bearers if I used it for the drawers. Other than that, build what you can with the materials you can get, and enjoy it!
11 February 2015 at 2:00 am #124554I wasn’t trying to say the weight is a negative. In fact I said it seems easy to use. A better way to say it would be that it is very heavy compared to the 12 oz hammer I have been using for these tasks, but that the weight is an asset and precisely why I built the mallet. I do think a slightly lighter head would improve the balance. I have no plans to change the size at this point, but I’ve only chopped one practise mortise with it.
10 February 2015 at 4:20 pm #124538Wesley,
I think those are mostly spokeshave shavings from the handle, they might be picking up some color on the camera from the bench top. I tend to use whatever leftover oil finish I have around on that when I flatten it and the last one was some cherry stained Danish oil, turned my bench top a manly pinkish color 🙂
9 February 2015 at 1:58 am #124489Ted the poor mans toothing plane blade is installed at an angle? I could see where adding a depth stop toe arrangement with a couple of pieces of wood and no angle would help but without a fence you would still have to follow your line manually, so how is it an improvement?
8 February 2015 at 7:16 am #124474@tedcolorado, are you sure you meant the poor man’s toothing plane? If I remember right in that video Paul is demonstrating making a tool for roughening a surface for veneering? Is it possible you are thinking of a kerfing plane? Tom Fidgeon has some good videos on making one, and it does what you are describing.
6 February 2015 at 8:28 am #124427@gary I bet that gauge is really comfortable in the hand with the rounded edges on the fence! One thing I see and it might just be the photograph but the pin looks like it has some rough facets on it? One thing that has helped me with my pins is to chuck them up in my electric drill before I install them and spin them against the side of a running bench grinding wheel. Makes a nice round SHARP point at whatever angle you like. Actually I did it on both ends of my pins as they are drilled into but not through the arm. Works great!
6 February 2015 at 3:02 am #124421Very nice! I wasn’t sure if I would like the splay but it came out very neat and well proportioned.
6 February 2015 at 2:56 am #124420Very nice! I had a mystery scrap of what I think was elm in the lumber rack that I made a spokeshave blade holder out of today…do you notice a very unusual smell when you work with it?
2 February 2015 at 10:24 pm #124270I looked around for and lucked into some clear Red Alder that is wide enough. It’s unusual to find it in 14″ widths though, I got it from a local guy with a small sawmill and some kilns.
Chris Schwarz has written a lot about tool chests, and has a good post about what your asking here:
He actually recommends against Ash and the oaks, saying they are hard to dovetail. I have no idea if that’s true, the only thing I’ve used Ash for is a couple tool handles and I don’t really like the way oak looks so I never buy it.
I went with Alder because its super common here so it’s inexpensive. Its a dream to work with hand tools as well, and lightweight. I’d look at your local woods that are inexpensive, and do some research to see what’s light and easy to work with.
As for the thinner stock, I don’t have any suggestions there. I plan on resawing my own by hand, but that’s not for everybody. I’m thinking about building a kerfing plane ala Tom Fidgeon to help with that part. I can and have done it by hand with just marking gauge lines before, but I think the kerfing plane might eliminate some of the waste from planning. I do have a thickness planer so that is always an option, but I hate to turn that much good wood into chips, and these pieces aren’t too big so I don’t think it will be too labor intensive.
You can see the process I’m talking about here:
2 February 2015 at 10:09 pm #124267Thanks for the kind words everyone.
@chemical_cake The chipping around the dowel holes isn’t from use, its from a bad auger bit. Since I wanted to use only my hand tools on this and I have better luck following an angled hole with a brace than an electric drill, I didn’t have a perfect bit as my #6 auger bit (garage sale find in amongst several others) has a scoring wing with a ding in it. I can’t correct it without filing from the outside of the bit (which would completely ruin it), so I didn’t sweat it too much. Honestly when I first started these I thought it would be more of a rough prototype to just try the design, but I liked them enough that I finished them out. Since they won’t be seen outside of the shop, I didn’t worry too much about it. Doesn’t affect the use at all.
@frankj Thanks for sharing. I’ve read that book by Hayworth, it’s a great resource. I had forgotten about it, and thought that your kerfing plane was from Tom Fidgen’s latest book “The Unplugged Workshop”, he uses it for creating kerfs to follow when resawing thicker boards into thinner stock. Hadn’t really thought about how it would work for the things you mentioned. As far as the Logan Cabinet Shoppe, that was where I first saw the marking gauge design a couple of years ago. I recently found it again from the Literary Workshop blog when I was looking for a mortise gauge design. I embedded Bob’s video in my blog post, but didn’t think to share it here. I’ll post it here so others can see it, Bob has created some great content over the years.
@juan-m One thing I shot for with this build was a tight fit between all the parts, and then took a couple of shavings off after that to allow for the finish. I took care to get the mortise for the sliding block pretty tight so there is enough friction there that you can set the pins and not disturb that setting when you adjust the fence. I might have to loosen it up if it tightens up because of wood movement, but I hope not. -
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