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5 May 2015 at 3:17 pm #126994
Angle grinder or Dremel should do it. I would lay a wet rag on the iron during the cut. Taking breaks during the cut helps too.
23 March 2015 at 12:39 pm #125843For me it looks like the owner has tried to make a 5tpi saw from a 10tpi saw piece by piece.
Therefore you have to skip one teeth at filing.
Doing this the smaller teeth will more and more melt into the bigger tooth. In the end
they will be gone and you have a 5tpi saw.
Just another idea…9 March 2015 at 2:03 pm #125376Hello David,
I can follow your bad experience with rough lumber in the hardware store. There is often a lot of material that is only usable in a stove. Thick cracks or knots, twisted and bowed…
I always select my wood and measure the moisture before I buy it.
But also the wood they sell planed is always bowed and twisted. So why paying the double price when I have to plane it again. I would pay the price if it is straight and square.
However I have to plane to the dimensions I want.Currently I am searching a new project but then I will test your advice.
6 March 2015 at 11:36 am #125297Hello David,
no I didn’t but I will give it a try. Looks very very promising.
There are 3 dealers near my home.Thank you very much for your advice!!
2 March 2015 at 2:19 pm #125182Thank you for all your recommendations!
I just get it right with a crosscut panel saw some practice and staying away from my line.
After that I planed to my line.
I also noticed that my third hand (jaw horse) isn’t that practical when it comes to sawing
large panels of about 60cm x 140cm x 1,8cm. I have to get some saw horses to get a better position of my upper body during the sawing action.
Thank you George for your trick with the alcohol I will try it. Never heard of it so far.I also tried a sawing technique I saw on a youtube video months ago.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzunGEGcbCY at time 2:01.
It works very well. The cut was dead square. In my case I altered the cutting direction away from my body. I think it is the gravity which makes it work so well. The saw is saw and perpendicular in one and so you only have to follow the line.Thank you to all
Dominik
27 February 2015 at 7:24 am #125132I think the plate isn’t completely seated in the spine. The plate should be pushed further in the spine so that there is no gap between plate and spine on the right in your image.
Paul showed a method in a video about saw straightening. He beats the saw back flat on his benchtop. That should seat the plate perfectly I think.The other thing to consider is that your spine could be crooked.
I hope I could help you.
Best regards from Germany
Dominik
23 February 2015 at 3:16 pm #124996Yes I watched that videos. But if I remember correct the longside of the board (in that video) was the long-grain direction. In my case the longside is long-grain (no problem planing it to perfection) and also end-grain (and here are my problems). Perhaps my plane wasn’t sharp enough to get that endgrain edge straight and square so I aim to get better saw results. Perhaps this view is wrong and I only have to improve my skills in endgrain planing.
I think I will watch those videos again.
Thank you for your help.
23 February 2015 at 3:04 pm #124993@Eddy No in this case I didn’t use the knifewall because I thought I could rough cut it and then plane it. Perhaps that was my mistake.
I think I will give it a try. If I cut smaller things like tenons I always use the knifewall method. I have a long ruler to make that longline cut.Thank you for your thoughts…
Dominik
23 February 2015 at 1:45 pm #124986Thank you for your recommendations Brett! I just ordered a crosscut panel saw.
I think a special saw for crosscutting long boards makes it easier even when a 10tpi ripcut saw will do the same job.
I still improved my sawing technique in smaller cuts like dovetails tenons and so on and I am quiet happy with that. But a 40cm long cut is something different. I have to practice such long cuts. Especially to saw square along the thickness. Here I am often extremely out of square.Any further tips are very welcome
Dominik
13 February 2015 at 8:14 am #124606Hi Gary,
I would flatten the round post on the side where the screw comes down on it.
Perhaps it makes also sense to flatten the end of that locking screw.Best regards from Germany
Dominik
12 February 2015 at 10:34 am #124588I rub my tools with paste wax. It is more durable and works fine. No rust so far.
12 February 2015 at 10:16 am #124584Thank you for all your recommendations.
I often use those square stock of beech from the hardware store for handles by laminating them to bigger boards.
It works great but I like to get some other kinds of wood and of course it would be nice to have one piece that fits without laminating. There are also those ready laminated boards of beech and oak in the hardware store but I don’t trust those lamination because of the finger-joints that are used for jointing endgrain with endgrain. These joints often seem to be coarse and not very accurate. But perhaps someone here tried those boards for handles?
Laminating works but it is simply the search for another way of doing it.11 February 2015 at 12:22 pm #124569Hi David,
thank you for your post. I would use rosewood (in Deutschland Palisander) if I could get some.
I have difficulties on getting the wood I want. Is there an online source you can recommend? Even oak is hard for me to get. There are only those laminated pieces 18mm thick in the hardware store and I don’t think that they are suitable.Best regards from Germany
Dominik
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