@ed2thankful
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Look back on some of the projects and you will see Paul show how to do the breadboard ends.
hi Matt;
I also went the way of the cheap plane as many did but the fact is that most of the stanleys on the market today are there with the current market value on them and after having wasted time hoping to get one on the cheap, I resolved to buy a good new one. I went for the Stanley Sweetheart plane #4. It took a bit of getting used to the advancing mechanics but it has proved to be a plane I would recommend to anyone just starting out. It is a high quality plane with excellent steel in the iron ( keeps an edge well), the craftsmanship is very good and it cost about $130 ( just a few dollars more than they are asking for the used ones now).
Good luck with your woodworking.
EdNice stool Mick. I would like one in my shop if only I had the room 🙂
About the use of cut off saw to cut veneered ply- The cheapest and most effective thing I found was a tip from WoodSmith to stick a piece of 1/4″ thick hardboard to the bottom of the saw with double stick tape. The very carefully lower the blade through the hardboard and you have an instant 0-clearance insert that stops the tear out on the upswing of the blade. As far as table saw use, again use a 0-clearance insert to cut the ply with. If you want to be sure of clean cuts, prescore the bottom of the piece being cut before running it through the saw.
A note on hand tools and ply: I have used my # 4,spokeshave and router on plywood. I do however make sure the blades are in top sharpness due to the glues and the constant crossgrain changes as you deepen the cut. As far as using hand saws, the only way to be sure of the clean cut result is to do a deep score of the top and bottom of the piece being cut.
Good Luck!Hi larry-
I know you are probably sure of the measurement but the standard SAE fine thread for a 10/32 or 5/16 is also 24 tpi- You are off by a 32nd. Maybe you should try a 5/16-24 screw or nut depending on what you are trying to match.
Good Luck,
Ed
