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Why would the steel be too thin for wooden planes? Maybe because of the wedge stressing the iron too much? I’ve picked up and restored a wooden plane with a very old iron thinner than the one in my #4, Sandusky Tool Co. is the maker etched on it. The plane works very well, no chatter, nice shavings! I’d say go ahead and make a wooden plane for your old blade, if it doesn’t work you can always buy a new iron.
Thanks Matthew! How did you proceed for the diagonal recess? I was thinking I would lay out a line at the bottom, make diagonal stop cuts, and finally chisel the waste very carefully. I think you’re right in saying this is the kind of equipment that doesn’t get changed too often, and I can even glue a piece in the recess and plane it down if I ever want another vise.
Thanks Craig, that might be the best option. Assuming the shim I make is 1/8″ thick at the bottom and compensates for the angle, the vise would be proud of about an inch from the apron. Is it too much? I usually see vises proud by a half inch, or maybe 5/8″… I’m concerned leverage on the bench top would be increased, especially since the apron will occlude two screw holes from the bottom face…
Also, I’m very curious about this old vise I bought some time ago. There’s “Moody” and “R-9” written on the front, but despite a long search on the internet, I didn’t find any maker of this name or even any vise that had exactly the same details. The vise was painted with a thick coat of tacky gray paint, the name barely visible, and part of the screwbox was fractured and repaired with lumps of iron. Any of you have stumbled upon the same vise? The quick-release mechanism consists of a half-threaded spring-loaded brass shoe. The brass part was shimmed with very old waxed cardboard paper as the threads seemed to have been worn down so much that they didn’t engage the screw! I decided it would be an end vise, being too risky as a main bench vise. I could upload more pictures of the disassembled mechanism if some of you are interested.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.LinoG, I’m in the same situation as you are concerning noise. For low frequency vibrations, what your neighbours will hear is effectively the vibration going through the chisel, the piece, the bench, the floor, all the way to the building structure. I think increasing the mass of your bench may help, and introducing some shock dampening lining or pads to the system may work too.
Lining the walls of the room will absorb the sound waves too.
That’s all theoretical, as I still have to test it on my side. I’m curious as to what other members here have to say on that subject.
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