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10 December 2022 at 6:09 pm #783120
Note, the better quality Doug fir stock is used for 2 x 12s and 2 x 10s and you can rip out almost knot free boards from them.
10 December 2022 at 6:08 pm #783117I recommend using Douglas Fir. I made a 7’ x 24” x 4” bench starting with Douglas fir 2 x 10s from the home center. It was still 10-15% moisture content when I jointed and planed the boards. After several seasons of drying, along with a few annual levelings with hand planes, it has turned out to be remarkably stable. I check it every season with a straight edge.
28 August 2022 at 9:16 pm #771927Sven, that looks like a reasonable approach to drawer construction. A center slot keeps the drawer from racking. On conventional flush fronted drawers, I was taught to make the back about 1/16” shorter than the front. This makes the drawer slightly trapezoid in shape but takes away some problems if the drawer space isn’t perfect.
10 July 2022 at 6:10 pm #766626Yes, I think you’re right! The thinner pieces don’t have enough strength.
I would seriously consider making walnut veneers about 1/16 to 3/32” thick IF you have a well tuned bandsaw. Then glueing those to a lumber core you have made from strips of quartered yellow poplar ( for us yanks that is actually a magnolia, not poplar) or pine.
I recently did this for the top of a small demilune table.
You also don’t need a vacuum bag, you can hammer veneer it to the core with hide glue.
I’d love to hear how it progresses, Ed.
Best of luck
10 July 2022 at 1:59 pm #766603Ed, this is a really interesting topic. It’s one of the reasons wood is such a frustrating material to work with. The cupping, I believe can be due to the moisture in the wood responding to your resawing and due to tension in the wood. I recently tried to resaw some mahogany and the resulting board bowed at least an inch or so, making the wood almost useless for what I was doing. That was clearly the result of tension.
My first inclination is you should just joint one face roughly. You don’t need it perfect for a good resaw but you don’t want any twist either, then joint one edge square to the first face. You might have to resaw off a thicker board to account for any new wood movement, in which case you might not get 2 equally thick pieces out of the board.
In my experience, really dry open grain wood like oak and ash do well resawing. Maybe really well-seasoned pine and black cherry also do well.
I’m interested in what other readers say.
27 May 2022 at 2:43 am #761193You could try seating the panel with little foam rubber plugs to prevent rattling. I’ve seen these used when insulated glass panels are used. Hope this helps. Good luck!
17 May 2021 at 11:43 pm #713639Looks to me like the legs splay out in 2 dimensions, which means a compound angle for the apron meeting the leg. I’m not sure the best way to approach this. Hopefully, others will chime in here.
12 January 2021 at 6:38 pm #695318I’ve had exactly this issue with my Veritas plow plane. I believe it’s due to the sides of the cutter, which are square to the face of the cutter, binding in the groove. I have since ground a slight bevel on the sides of the cutter, being careful however not to change the dimensions of the cutter. I’m not concerned with getting the sides sharp, just beveled enough to provide some relief in the cut. In tough or uncooperating wood, the other thing that helps is Paul’s method of using a marking knife to score the sides before plowing further. This works amazingly well if there’s a knot in your path.
7 January 2020 at 12:53 am #643499My vise a wood classic leg vise with wood jaws. I lined it with a composite engine gasket material that believe is a mix of cork and rubber. I just glued it on with contact cement so that I can easily replace it in the future. I’m amazed at how well it holds stock with minimal vise pressure.
7 January 2020 at 12:34 am #643492Nice job Ed. You’ll get a lot of use for it. I agree about cathedral grain. It always drives me crazy. One option is to paint it. I like that you used 3 hinges per door.
5 December 2019 at 2:25 am #633545Great work Ed. It’s invaluable to have such a big bench for that glue up. What glue did you settle on? PVA?
Really enjoying the updates.
23 November 2019 at 4:05 pm #629932Hello Ed, 2 quick observations:
You might have problems with wood cupping or warping unless your really lucky. Did you consider cabinet-grade plywood for the sides and back of the carcass?
What finish you choose for a bathroom location is very important, I would think.
Good luck,
Harvey
1 September 2019 at 3:00 pm #604598Ed, the chair frame looks to be attached to the rear seat posts by some sort of mortise and tenon. I’ve seen this done on other chairs with turned posts. It’s not hard to mortise the round parts with a simple indexing jig.
Is there also a repair to one of the joints involving a steel plate??
29 June 2019 at 9:06 pm #585448I am not sure but that resembles spalting, which is common in maple.
27 March 2019 at 12:20 pm #555687I’m skeptical that the threaded rod is the problem. Check the tongue that engages with the slot in the chip breaker. Does that engage smoothly? Often the slot in the chipbreaker is galled or damaged but it’s soft steel and is easily filed or stoned. Hope this helps!!
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