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1 June 2015 at 11:57 am #127435
Now that George has owned up to his mishap I have to put my hand up and confess to having done exactly the same thing. I was trying to force the rag into the can using a twisting motion and I can still feel the sensation of the lip of the can biting in now, one year later. Luckily no stitches required but it did smart a bit (and pump the blood).
Jon
28 May 2014 at 10:19 pm #57659I could be completely wrong here, but the one that Craig gives the link for on eBay looks very similar to the one Paul uses at his workshop/school in north Wales. I’m sure that was a startrite and a similar colour. Seemed to work great for dimensioning the wood for the projects we did. You could ask him what he thinks of it (assuming it’s the same).
16 September 2013 at 9:51 pm #18943Thanks Ken. That would seem about right then. Think I might need to look at a shoulder plane to get things a bit deeper on the old rebates. I was looking at one of those quangsheng shoulder/block planes recently. Have you ever used them?
Cheers
Jon16 September 2013 at 4:56 pm #18920Thanks Ken.
I just went and double checked the max depth that I have been able to achieve and it’s exactly 1/4″. Not sure how I’d get another half an inch out of it. I could squeeze out another 32nd maybe by physically removing the depth-stop from its housing. That would only give me the depth of the depth-stop foot i.e. about a 32nd.
The only thing I can think of it lowering the blade further below the bottom of the skate. The way I have it now I get a really nice smooth shaving, lowering it further would expose too much blade I think.
How do you manage to get down further? 1/4″ doesn’t seem anywhere near enough to be useful, especially for cutting shoulders.
Cheers
Jon8 September 2013 at 10:48 am #18267Thanks guys. I have to admit that I did try to cut the first notch in a board (to go around an upright pergola post) with an electric jigsaw. I soon realised that it was noisier, less accurate and potentially more likely to do irreparable damage to the board if I slipped up, so I got out my panel saw and chisels and did it ‘properly’.
25 February 2013 at 9:36 am #8439Hi Mick
I found a tip on google for fitting an under bench vice which I think probably saved me a huge amount of hassle. Essentially you take a bit of two by four, or any sturdy piece of stock which is long enough, hold it up against the bench and mark on it where the top of the vice would come to (in my case flush with the top of the bench). Then, when you are ready to fit the vice, you clamp the stock in the vice (i.e. tighten the vice onto the stock) with the top of the vice lined up with the mark you previously made on the stock. This effectively gives you a leg which holds the weight of the vice, and holds it at exactly the correct height, whilst you manoeuvre it into position. This worked like a dream when I tried it and was much easier that either turning the bench over or having to find another pair of hands. Very simple and obvious when you think about it, but then the best tips always are.
Cheers
Jon
20 February 2013 at 6:12 pm #8243Good, but you should see me with my old stanley no.4 and that reclaimed shelving!!
17 January 2013 at 10:54 pm #6632Thanks Dave. I’ll have to see if I can pick one up cheap and give it a go.
16 January 2013 at 2:26 pm #6594A spokeshave is my next purchase. Not sure what sort to buy though, other than it should being flat (as opposed to convex or concave). Anyone have any suggestions? I’ve looked at a few #151’s for sale on eBay. There’s also the Veritas versions. One that I am being drawn to is this one… http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Quangsheng_Flat_Bottomed_Spokeshave_Bronze.html or possibly the steel variant of the flat one. I’m thinking I should go for a metal bodied variant. The wooden ones look scary to me……or am I being a whimp?
16 January 2013 at 1:36 pm #6582@everyone…….thanks god it’s not just me then. I was starting to worry I had something wrong with me!
I’m working on a project to turn an old desk into a couple of bedside tables at the moment. I ran around the garden in a victory celebration when I successfully rounded over the edges of the table tops using Paul’s method with a No.4 plane. No tear-out on the end grain, just lovely, smooth, 45 degree creases on the corners. My wife is very supportive of my new ‘hobby’ but she is policing the amount of time I spend in my sub-zero garage workshop. I went out ‘for an hour ‘ at 13.05 on Saturday and she had to come and drag me back into the house at 18.00!! That says it all for me.
14 January 2013 at 8:45 pm #6514I’m going to try and use a HSS bit which should do the job I think. I don’t know what size I need yet so I’ll purchase one when I’ve got the saw bolts in my hands and can measure them. I’m lucky in that I have a really good hardware store right next to where I work. I’ve bought HSS bits there in the past and they’ve been very good. I think they are DeWalt.
14 January 2013 at 2:27 pm #6499@Florian. Thanks for the link. I’ve found similar at Workshop heaven and at Flinn-Garlick saws here in the UK. I’ll pick some up and give them a go. Thanks for the tip re the soft heads. I hate it when you mash a screw slot because the metal is too soft (or you are using the wrong sized screwdriver which is more my style!!).
@George. I’ll do that. The first one I tried came out relatively easily with minimal marking to the handle i.e. nothing that wouldn’t sand out relatively easily. They didn’t unscrew, rather the head on one side sheared off, making it possible to knock the stub through to the other side and out. Where in the UK have you managed to source saw bolts from?
The challenge I have with these saw bolts is that the hole remaining after removing the original rivet is only 4mm, so it looks like I will need to drill both the handle and the saw blade to make them wide enough to take a 1/4″ bolt. Don’t have a pillar drill so will probably have to make myself a jig to ensure the hole is straight and accurate.
Thanks for the advice.
Jon
13 January 2013 at 10:13 pm #6469I paid a total of £124 at Amazon.com including delivery and tax for the same 3 200×75 stones, although the superfine is an EZ-lap (which was pennies cheaper than the Dmt). Delivery was about 10 days on each stone. Not sure what you’d do if you had to return an item though.
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