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26 December 2017 at 3:20 pm #418378
Easiest way is just a (half)Lap joint and securing it with 2 dowels.
25 December 2017 at 12:03 pm #417655Of course you can make a living with Woodworking, just dont expect to get rich. I can only talk about the Situation in Austria though Germany is very similar from my knowledge.
You have to understand that the world of Pro’s is vastly differnt to Hobbyists, Pauls methods work fantastic for the latter but not really for the former.
It all boils down to Materials, Efficiency(Tools), Time and Money.Modern Furniture has long since gone past only Solid Wood, you’re gonna work with Plastics, Veneers, Metals, Glas, Synthetic Materials like Corian, and ofc Sheetgoods. Multiple reasons for that: Money, Easy of use, Suitability to certain tasks, Durability etc.
Blockboard or Plywood are much more Stable for large surfaces such as Tabletops for example while Plastics and Corian are way easier to clean. Sheetgoods in general are easier to use (no need to glue up large surfaces) and, depending on the type, cheaper.
To Work these Materials you need machines and Powertools, no way around that. Handtools just arent efficient enough anymore, the only ones still really using them are Furniture Restorers as far as i know.
Not to say we dont use things like Chisels or Handsaws or even very very rarely a Handplane when its appropriate but in general its machines all the way. Time is money so you need to complete the job as swiftly and efficiently as possible.To really make it clear lets take 2 optically Identical Desks. One is Solid Walnut with Handcut Joinery, the Other is Veneered Plywood/Chipboard all Machined.
Some Numbers: 1m³ Solid Walnut costs about 2000 – 2500€, 1m² Walnut Veneer 6 – 20€, 1m² Chipboard 19mm thick ~10€, 38mm thick ~20€.The First Costs 5000€ the other costs 1500€, both look exaclty identical, I’ll let you figure out which one the Customer will buy.
So unless you work for a company specialised in Solid wood Furniture or a Restorer, its only used when necessary for reasons that i hope i explained earlier.
I might’ve gone a bit overboard but hey.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 4 months ago by Philipp J..
23 July 2017 at 9:57 pm #313969If you have access to a planer just use it, or go to the local cabinetmaker and have them do it.
Takes a couple minutes and costs you maybe a couple of beers.Its just the quickest and easiest way for you to get back on track and to joinery/project building, which is probably the part you actually wanna do.
As for a vice i highly recommend a shoulder vise.
18 July 2017 at 10:21 pm #313836Another thing you can use is the age old Marker method.
Color the entire bevel with a Permanent Marker and a couple strokes on the stone show you exactly where Material was removed.18 July 2017 at 7:55 pm #313827Agreed you wanna do the Bench first, having a sturdy bench and vise make life alot easier.
Oh and one thing right of the getgo, you will screw up. Dont worry about it, just part of woodworking and learning.
Its alot less critical on the Bench then other projects and the material is also pretty cheap in case theres a mistake in layout.And thats the biggest thing you can screw up, layout. Take the time and make sure all your (pencil)lines, measurements, knifewalls, gaugelines are accurate and where you want them to be.
I’ve seen quite a few pieces that look great from a distance but once you get close you’ll notice gaps, mistakes etc that all go back to sloppy layout. Its hard to make an accurate cut when your line isnt quite where you want it to be. Accuracy really is key.Edit: oh i forgot,
Yes you do have to sharpen almost any tool out of the box, a few exceptions like Japanese Saws, Hardpoint saws or Xacto blades etc., are just that, exceptions.- This reply was modified 6 years, 9 months ago by Philipp J..
18 July 2017 at 7:34 pm #313826Depends on the File, youd have to try and see if its soft enough to file down. I dont think it would be much faster then a (really) coarse stone anyways.
If you really wanna do it on a grinder id use something like Visegrips and only let the very tip show out to prevent too much flex and breaking, or clamp it between 2 pieces of wood or something else to make it more rigid.
Thats my main gripe with the Stanley Blades they flex a bit much for my taste and i use the edge of a table to “cut” down Sandpaper, Cardboard is a great way to test the durability of an edge and you can even strop on it.
18 July 2017 at 7:09 pm #313823It really depends on personal preference, generally for most things the Stanley knife works just fine just tilt the blade as has been said, for that matter chip carving knives work just aswell.
A lot of people seem to like the spearpoint single beveled knives like the Veritas, downside is that they are pretty much useless for anything but marking.
The Japanese Kiridashi(Kogatana) seem also quite popular though you have to get a pair (right and left beveled) of them. The Japanese use them as kinda multipurpose knifes, smaller variants without a Handle seem perfect for getting into really tight spots though.
It really depends on the kinda work you wanna do, both the Stanley and the Kiridashi, or any western counterpart, seem more versatile than the Spearpoint thats ofc no issue if you’re looking for a pure marking knife.
If you plan to do any Veneering at all then absolutely go with a single bevel knife, they work alot better with a straightedge for long/wide sheets of Veneer where dead on precision without deviation is needed.Seeing as none of the knives are that expensive you can probably afford to try out more then one variety.
17 July 2017 at 6:54 pm #313783Just as has already been said, ease up on pressure you dont need much. Its a really common beginner issue, seeing the picture it seems you apply too much pressure with the left hand, or too little with the right, and tilt the chisel in the process.
Really focus on applying the pressure evenly, might help if you try to only apply pressure with your left hand and soley focus the right hand on keeping the angle.
It just really depends on whats easier for you, theres no one true method to sharpening, everyone has preferences and develops his/her own style over time.15 July 2017 at 2:11 pm #313737It has nothing to do with cheating, its a hobby for you and i think you’re probably more interessted in learning joinery and building projects than preparing stock.
If you can get lumber to the dimensions you need and the price is reasonable why not use the service? Nothing wrong with that
Moisture Meter is a good idea though depending on who you buy from.
Though as with anything you get what you pay for, i wouldnt get the cheapest one, just get the best you can afford.Biggest time saves come from using the right tools for the job.
For example get yourself a dedicated worden scrubplane instead of trying to hog off Material with a No 4.14 July 2017 at 8:56 pm #3137331.)If you just want to go minimalist an easy way to do it is to add 2 rails on the underside of the Tabletop with sliding dovetails and cut a rabbet in the sides of them them.
Then you are going to glue, screw, nail, dowel, whatever you like best, 2 rails near the top on the sides of the drawer to correspond with the Rabbet and allow the drawer to slide.
Simple, clean and easy way if you dont want an extra frame for the drawers or just for design reasons.If you really want an extra frame theres a couple ways you can do it.
2.) (dont know the english terminology) basically you need 3 strips of wood per side, all located in the corners.
2 on the underside of the tabletop in the corners of the frame to stop the Drawer from tilting up and down, 4 in the bottom corners 2 flat and 2 upright, 2 for the drawer to run upon and 2 for it to not tilt side to side.3.) you just cut a rabbet in both sides of the Drawer and add 2 rails to the frame for the Drawers to travel upon.
Theres a variant of this with 2 or 3 interlocking rails with stop pins that allow you to slide the drawer out all the way though alot more complex so im gonna leave this one out.Heres a quick drawing of the 3 versions
12 July 2017 at 4:31 pm #313672I’m with Edmund on this one, better you save up one or two months extra and get the Veritas.
71£ Seems like a steep price, and only worth it with all 3 cutters + fence, looking at ebay they seem to have doubled to tripled in price since i bought mine.11 July 2017 at 8:03 pm #313656I’m not an expert by any means but from what i know after a failed quench you want to normalise it a couple times to releave stress and prevent cracking.
Normalising means heating it up and letting it slowly cool to room temperature and repeat that 2 or 3 times. Propably best to google around a bit.8 July 2017 at 10:44 am #3135823/16 is ~4,7mm so if you can find one a 5mm Chisel will be close to that though that is an unusual Size i only know Narex has a 5mm, other then that a 4mm or 6mm is far more common and available from any manufacturer.
Or as has been said aswell, in the US you might be able to find one second hand.
7 July 2017 at 9:59 pm #313568The Japanese seem to be rather good at making the most out of tiny amounts of space, you might find a few ideas there.
Seeing how many things Clifford has “cramped” into that amount of space is impressive though, especially fitting what looks like a small Tablesaw and Bandsaw.I have more space though the problem i cant mount anything to most walls, being stuck in a basement, do wish i could afford a bandsaw though.
6 July 2017 at 1:47 pm #313552If the Budget is really tight then id agree an ordinary Trisquare will work. However I gotta agree with Ed a combination square makes life alot easier and is far more versatile.
For a complete beginner id rather recommend buying a new Square though of which you can be sure it actually is square instead of hoping to find one on flee markets or having to fiddle around trying to square it up, be that a Tri- or Combinationsquare.
For Beginners its important to have something that works out of the box and allows you to focus on your work instead of having to second guess your tools.
As has been said you can skip saw sharpening for now and use the money you save on files and a sawset to get a proper square for example, though your budget is reasonably high so whatever you decide on you may be able to afford both anyways.
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