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13 November 2016 at 6:33 pm #142400
I completely forgot about this. I’ll have to check it out again. Thanks.
24 August 2016 at 3:06 am #139632Here’s an update on my second table which is much closer to the plan… The one change I made was to ditch the tapered legs altogether since I liked how the straight legs came out on my first one… Slow progress… A 4 week old is much more demanding than expected…
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You must be logged in to view attached files.9 July 2016 at 6:26 pm #138383Ok so here is my first table. I think I mentioned above that I was going to make two – one for some work friends and one because my wife wanted one.
Well with the troubles I had with getting a square shoulder all around my tenons I just wasn’t happy with the outcome so I made some design changes. I chopped the aprons down (I didn’t want to throw them out and start new since the one for me doesn’t need to follow the design) a bit so I could make new tenons (after fixing my out of square problems with the prep work). My table finished at an almost square 18.5″x16.5″ (don’t ask why it wasn’t 16.5×16.5 like I wanted when making the modification *face palm*). I’m actually happy with the dimensions now that I see it in person.
I also ditched the bottom shelf since my wife wasn’t a huge fan of it anyway. We have a few very annoying cats that love making a mess of that type of thing. Any magazines or books on that bottom shelf wouldn’t stay there for long.
So I’ve attached my photos (looks an awful lot like a photo I saw recently on someone’s blog…can’t remember where exactly). The table is for our baby room to hold a lamp next to the nursing chair.
Now to make progress on the second table and this one (hopefully) I will stick to the drawing.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.18 June 2016 at 5:10 pm #137939So here is what I’ve learned by taking your tips and experimenting a little.
I have a piece of 8″ wide S4S scrap that I used to to make some lines on. I was noticing that when I pushed too hard on the knife (this is magnified in soft pine) I’d tend to angle it more causing the knife wall to undercut the beam of the square causing me to be inconsistent when registering the knife on the other edge. I’d start by going super light at first but then noticed I was lazy or careless when I went with the heavier passes causing this to happen. I am also now focusing on locking my wrist and moving my whole hand and arm backwards when I draw the knife. Again I was probably being lazy and pulling by using wrist action causing it to be an inconsistent angle on the knife bevel.
When I went back to my project pieces the problem came back. Extremely frustrating I know… What I noticed was that the reference face wasn’t as flat as I thought and the square edge wasn’t square to the whole width of the board. If you can picture when I checked for square the stock of the square went on the face and the beam came in contact with the edge. If I checked this way then everything appeared square but it wasn’t when I flipped the square around to rest the stock on the edge and the beam across the entire face that I noticed the problem. My board sloped off towards one edge.
I’m not sure how this happened (probably just my inexperience) but I did it along an entire board which I then cut down into smaller sections so the error was present on all boards. (all with the same reference face and edge marks)
I think what happened was that this sloping off in the last inch and a quarter on the face of the board caused me to get an angle on the square when I squeezed it to the board to get the line on the edge which was square to the section of board I had referenced but that wasn’t what I wanted. I quickly flattened and squared it and when I corrected the problem the line rejoining in the end became better.
This sloping off on one side was about half as much on one board than the other board and when I compared the discrepancy on the square lines between boards the discrepancy was proportional to how much the board was off from the edge.
Thanks for your help and maybe this can help someone else in the future. This took me a lot of thinking and imagining what is happening in order to resolve and say that this was causing my problem. I still don’t fully believe it but I think the combination of being more careful with the knife and having a flat square board will help in the future.
18 June 2016 at 3:33 am #137929Thanks for the tips I’ll be trying this more this weekend and I’ll report back on what I figure out
13 June 2016 at 2:53 am #137800Thanks I’ll be sure to try the smoother again right after sharpening before I go straight to the scraper.
I move kind of slow but here is the progress from today. Legs are still several inches long…
Even though I used a guide I seem to have the mortise a bit out of parallel with the outside face where the guide was… Or the other wall is flairing out a little at the bottom it is hard for me to tell the result is that the apron sits flush on the outside but a small gap on the inside and I can tell it doesn’t sit 90° and extends at an angle… I seem to have corrected it but I am still trying to figure out how it happened to prevent it next time…
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You must be logged in to view attached files.8 May 2016 at 10:17 pm #137080I spent some more time fooling around with different things in sketchup and I just couldn’t get anything to look ‘right’ to me. I browsed google images to see if I could figure out which aspect was off and I think it’s the leg thickness. I was in the ballpark of 2.25″-2.5″ thickness on all my designs which would taper down to somewhere between 1 to 1.5″ at the bottom. The only design this looked OK in was the taper on the inside two sides of each leg. If I only tapered the 1 face that was on the longer side of the table or even the outside two faces the legs just seemed to look backwards.
My conclusion from my image searches was that my legs were just too big for this size of a table (might have been fine if I was going for the overall bulky look or a big taper on all 4 faces but I was hoping to stay away from that). I did a few designs where the legs have a max size of 1.5×1.5 and taper down to 1″ on the inside face. That’s .5″ over about 25 inches of leg so just a really slight taper.
I also just finished the bench stool project and I can’t get the design aspect of the arc on the apron out of my head so that guided me to what I have in the picture I think I’m going to go with. Also in PS’s blog post from today where he shows a photo of the two side tables (i think?) holding up the wall hanging tool cabinet with the same arc on the apron. The legs look like the same design as the bench stool and I just love that look. You saw glimpses of those small tables in the project series and I kept catching myself admiring them even though they look so simple. I don’t know what it is about them that I like so much I just can’t explain it. Anyway I’m going to get started and will hopefully post photos along the way probably in a new thread (except I always forget to stop and take a few while I’m working).
Thanks again for your suggestions I’m going to need more in the future I’m sure.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.8 May 2016 at 6:16 pm #137071Thanks Ed,
These sound like good considerations I didn’t really think of. Sketchup has the model warehouse where you can grab real life items that others have made and put those into your drawing. I’ll incorporate that into my work to try out the look.
This particular table has requirements to it. The size being one (otherwise the tallness of the table I’d probably change to be a bit shorter). Specific request for no drawer. Specific request for a lower shelf for magazines and newspapers. This is really one of the first times I’m working with constraints that I must follow since this isn’t for myself. Usually I just go with the flow of whatever I’m feeling at the time.
6 May 2016 at 12:25 am #137042Thanks Jude, Matt and Brett. Because the table is so small in size I wanted to avoid having it look clunky. As it stands I don’t really like the looks of the 5/8″ shelf rail thickness I might make that a 1/2″. I didn’t try a taper on only 1 face in the drawing yet but I’ll try that to see how it looks. I do like this idea of a taper only on one face but it puts those short cross rails in an awkward spot if the leg is too small at the point where it’s attached. I think some fooling around with positions and sizes should resolve that issue though. I really like sketchup and it comes easy to me so it’s quick to try a bunch of different things.
I’ve also been playing around with the apron size. I’ve noticed that a slight change 3/4″ one way or another makes a big impact on the overall feel of the model at least. How that translates to real life we’ll see.
Any thoughts to the tenon size on those shelf cross rails? I think whatever I pick without getting silly about it will be just fine for what the table will be used for.
18 March 2016 at 5:09 pm #135753I like how the coloring turned out a nice brown instead of grayish how it turns out sometimes I’ve seen when you use pine. You dissolved the steal wool then ‘painted’ it on?
Did you laminate the legs from 3/4″ material or were you able to find 1.5″ stock nearby?
27 January 2016 at 1:09 pm #134245An update on my situation is that I took the whole iron assembly along with the lever cap from another plane of the same type and put it in the offending plane and everything lines up (not sure why I didn’t think of that myself). So I’m not sure what it is exactly but I think I can narrow it down by process of elimination and I would guess I need to find a new cap iron to use. I haven’t looked around yet but I doubt those would be that difficult to find new or used.
10 January 2016 at 3:47 pm #133770I really like this design and would like to borrow different aspects from it for myself. I think I would split the top area in half to add two shelves.
It is short enough to use the top for standing pictures or a lamp or even book ends if you have a lot of books…
I think this is perfect for a kids room.
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