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31 March 2014 at 3:12 am #42707
@Erik Ho, Thank you for the compliment! I haven’t read his book, but I did follow his videos and his blog on how to build the bench.The only thing that I changed from paul’s design is the width of the bench top. I did make it wider, to suite my own preference. Other than that, I followed his videos and his blog exactly.
25 March 2014 at 11:12 pm #35842One word…Starrett! can’t go wrong, you will never need to buy another square.
19 March 2014 at 10:22 pm #29065Thank s every body for the compliments!
@Rusty, I had to go through several stacks at a couple locations, to find clean, straight 2x4s. I am sure the guys working there were glad to see me go.
@mexiquite, I have seen that spot on Paul’s bench! and I already got a few marks on the top from planing and cutting the vise pads. nothing can stay pretty forever!
@David Gill, I do find it plenty high enough, I am about 5’8″. In fact, I might cut an inch or 2 off the legs. When I was planing tall/higher pieces, I found myself using my arms more than body pressure. But I am going to do a few projects on the bench before I make any decisions.1 March 2014 at 5:53 am #28469@ Paul Sellers. Thank you very much for your reply! It’s funny that you should reply to this, because you are the person I really wanted to hear from. I noticed in your workbench blog that you installed a tail vise. So I trust your opinion. I can’t wait to post pictures of the finished bench for you to see, I am very proud.
I feel special, Paul Sellers, commenting on my thread post. LOL! you just made my night.22 January 2014 at 2:32 am #26359I didn’t see a description of the plane or many pictures. If I were looking to buy that item with so little info, the first question I ask the seller is always about the condition of the tote and knob. Are there any cracks? Repairs? Is the head of the bolt that holds either of them stripped or rusted.
Most people might not care so much about a cracked tote ’cause they can just make a new one. I like to have the original tote damage free, ’cause they feel better in the hand, I think. Also, depending on what they are asking or what the price has worked up to, will determine if I am willing to make a new tote. Sometimes you can find a better plane for around the same price.I don’t know if you inquired about any of these points to the seller, but for future reference, it’s always good to do so that you aren’t disappointed when you open the box. If the seller doesn’t answer your questions or if it seems like they don’t know what you are asking, then I would pass and find a seller that knows their merchandise. This can apply to anything on ebay. Good luck with your future ebay buys. I hope you enjoy your plane!
21 January 2014 at 3:42 am #26298aferris, If you live in the US, I believe Mary May teaches classes at Roy Underhill’s Woodwright’s school in North Carolina. I’m sure that would be a cool place to take some carving lessons. I am saving some money to take a couple classes there in the future.
19 January 2014 at 6:50 am #26185I am in the same boat as you so this probably wont be any help, but I once asked the same question to a guy at the Woodcraft store and he told me there isn’t one, I should buy each carving chisel as I need them. His answer kind of makes sense, because the work that you will be carving will determine what sizes and shapes you need. You might buy a 7 piece set and need some chisels that aren’t in the set and not need some that are. I have been shopping around for carving chisels and a lot of companies sell a small set which includes but are not limited to:
#3 x 8mm (5/16in.) straight gouge
#6 x 8mm (5/16in.) straight gouge
#9 x 8mm (5/16in.) straight gouge
#3 x 14mm (1/2in.) Allongee gouge
#6 x 14mm (1/2in.) Allongee gouge
#9 x 14mm (1/2in.) straight gouge
60° V tool x 10mm (3/8in.)
Pretty much a few gouges and a v tool. The set above is an Auriou “basic set”. I believe that pfiel Swiss made’s 7 tool set has different size gouges, but still gouges and a v tool. So I guess we might have to just buy a couple that we think we might need and go from there. I look forward to seeing what experienced carvers have to say on the topic.19 January 2014 at 6:20 am #26183Thank you, Sandy, Mark and Dave for your replies and suggestions! To answer a couple questions, I am using a ’40s era Disston saw and I am cutting “pine” from The Home Depot. It is actually for my workbench I am trying to finish. The pieces I tried to cut are the laminated aprons. The lumber has been in my shop for about 2-3 months, but it could still be a little wet, I have been having issues with it warping after planing it square. After I made this post I cut the legs to length and had no issues at all. The lumber for the legs has been in my shop for about 6 months now. So after reading everyones replies I am going to say that the wood is to blame. I guess a moisture meter would be a good investment now.
24 November 2013 at 1:32 pm #22191I like to use electrolysis myself. It takes less than a couple of hours (depending on how much rust is to be removed) and you just wipe away the black gunk that use to be rust. But molasses seems a lot safer! I am curious to see how it turns out.
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