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Hi Everyone!
Thanks for all of the answers and advice. My shop is rather dry…probably drier than a regular house interior. I try to stack the boards on end. Besides enabling better circulation of the surrounding air it also allows for better storage effectiveness.
Using plastic bags and shrink wrap is a very good idea. It’s very logical ๐
I was also wondering about tension in wood. Do You have any good advise on how to estimate it, how to minimize the consequences of its presence. Today I was making some dividers to the box. I wanted them thin, about 1/4″. So I took a cutoff piece from the sides of the box – 20mm material and re-saw it into two thinner pieces. Immediately after re-sawing both pieces cupped significantly. Is there any better way, than just cutting it thicker, allowing for the movement and then planing to final thickness?
Regards,
Lukasz.
Hello Everybody!
Great hints and tips in this thread! Sinisa – I don’t believe in such as beginner questions, because those are the questions, that are asked most rarely, but the answers always remain unsaid. I too find it sometimes hard to square an edge. Of all that has been said earlier:
– cambered iron,
– applying more pressure to one side,
– lighter cuts and often checking (very effective method!),
I’d like to add:
– on twisted edges I sometimes use a shorter plane (i.e. apron plane, block plane) and work in segments to get rid of the twist; this is a method I picked up from Shannon Rogers,
– on thinner stock I use the shooting board, with the edge overhanging slightly over the edge of the top surface of the shooting board (this is a very quick and pleasant method :)).
I must emphasize, that I find the lighter cuts and frequent checks very important. It also applies to thicknessing a board, where at the final stage one creeps up slowly to the desired dimension (Mr. Charlesworths “feathered edge”) with very light cuts.
Kindest regards,
Lukasz.
Hello Gentlemen!
Paul – When You talk about using the coping saw, I think You think about ONLY using the coping saw to remove waste. Not an issue for us regular people ๐
Gary – I agree with your suggestion to chop from both sides and I do so…in my description of the method I used a “mental shortcut” ๐
Jeff – As I look at your diagrams, I get the feeling we were talking about to different problems. In the issue You are describing the solution may be a chisel with the side thickness reduced. As Gary mentioned…grind or file a chisel or get and old Marples or new LN, Blue Spruce or Veritas (by the reviews the are so thin one has to sand them a bit to not get hurt :)). Anyway, I haven’t found a problem with this part of dovetailing.
What I had on my mind was when cleaning the space between the pins. How is the chopping done, not to mar the pin walls? On my diagram the area giving me the issue is colored in light grey. What I do now is chop down from both sides the width of the narrower part of the tale (yellow) and then pare the remaining triangle with the chisel (orange). Is that what you do?
Regards,
Lukasz.
Hi Jeff!
I also found this issue a problem while making the pin board. I also found out, that nobody every mentions this problem in videos or write-ups on dovetailing…I wonder why, because I find this part of making the pin board quite challenging to make it neat and clean. The method I tried using recently is to chop in from the narrower side of the tails (wider of the pins) which leaves a little triangle of wood (widening towards the wider side of the tails), which I then pare down with the chisel. I find this more accurate and cleaner than chopping with the chisel at an angle.
I hope this might help…and that someone finally pays some detailed attention to this matter in a video tutorial ๐
Regards,
Lukasz.
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