Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
27 June 2023 at 9:05 pm #805704
Hi James,
Sorry for a late comeback but thanks for the suggestion. Will give it a try in future!
Cheers,
Sebastiaan
15 September 2022 at 7:35 pm #773835Thanks for that recipe Sven-Olof. I only ever used the left over solution that I kept after derusting tools, but will keep that recipe in mind for next time. Must work better!
Cheers,
Sebastiaan
12 September 2022 at 11:43 am #773493Nice!
I darkened some oak and beech a few times in a vinegar/water/rust solution (found it stained the wood once as I was derusting an old tool with wooden handle that I hadn’t protected well enough). Thought it worked reasonably well.
Cheers,
Sebastiaan
8 September 2022 at 11:25 am #773054Hi Sven-Olof,
Thanks for the suggestion. I looked it up and can get it here in the Netherlands too. Interesting combination of oils: sunflower, soy and thistle oil the Dutch product sheet says, and carnauba and candelilla wax. It also says safe for use on toys, which is always nice.
And nice cabinet! What wood are the knobs/handles? Did you make them too (on a lathe)?
Cheers,
Sebastiaan
- This reply was modified 1 year, 7 months ago by sebastiaan.
14 January 2022 at 3:54 pm #744774Very glad you all liked it too and thanks for sharing the extra information on Hayward (and copyright)!
@Orestis, nice to see you made some of the tools. They look very good. How do your scraper and block planes do? I thought about those ones myself. So far haven’t worked with either type of plane at all. Or with cabinet scrapers for that matter, but just this week tried to make a scraper from an old saw blade (0.8mm). Not an instant success at scraping and creating curls (just tiny ones and mostly dust), but very good at removing old finish, much better than sanding. Should maybe try with some bought blades first. What did you use for a scraper blade in the plane you made Orestis?I also liked the small router plane in the book, but just made another inspired by Paul’s one (though it ended up quite different, because I followed an old one I’d seen on ebay that I thought was very pretty too). I attach some photos of the one I made (I realised after finishing that the iron doesn’t retract very far in, so I made the thin protective filler for the round whole, so the iron doesn’t get hit and blunted when putting it away in the toolbox).
Cheers to all,
Sebastiaan
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.10 December 2021 at 8:45 pm #740265Hi Larry,
Just finished making most of the replacement parts and thought to share a photo to say thanks for your replies. I got those 3/16 UNC hex bolt on Aliexpress as my local shop didn’t carry the smaller UNC bolts (same for the thumbscrews on the skate – M6). As the Marples 040 cutters don’t have the grooves for depth adjustment, I still have to see if I want to make new cutters – never done that, seems like quite a bit of work with those sides of plough plane blades also having a small angle – or just tap adjust the depth with my Marples cutters. I did already make that adjuster screw by threading a bit of metal and screwing it onto that 3/16 adjuster screw (I obviously take it out when using the plane – just there for the photo). Plane works fine it seems.
Cheers,
Sebastiaan
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.10 December 2021 at 8:40 pm #740260Hi Larry,
Just finished making most of the replacement parts and thought to share a photo to say thanks for your replies. I got those 3/16 UNC hex bolt on Aliexpress as my local shop didn’t carry the smaller UNC bolts (same for the thumbscrews – M6). As the Marples 040 cutters don’t have the grooves for depth adjustment, I still have to see if I want to make new cutters or just tap adjust the depth. I did already make that adjuster screw by threading a bit of metal and screwing it onto that 3/16 adjuster screw (I obviously take it out when using the plane – just there for the photo).
Cheers,
Sebastiaan
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.8 September 2021 at 10:00 pm #728007Hi Larry,
Just thought to give a quick update. I got some old Whitworth taps and this plane baffles me: the screw that holds the blade laterally to the body seems to be a 3/16 (great fit with the tap), but the 3/16 tap is too small for the depth adjustment screw hole (goes in without turning), while the 7/32 won’t go in (too big)… something in between?? Still think those threads look coarse by eye. If 3/16 BSW is too small, I guess it can’t be 3/16-20, right?
Also, the holes for the fence rods don’t look like they’re Whitworth. Nothing fits. M6 is still the closest, but maybe those are UNC. Haven’t tested that yet.
That just as an incomplete update.
Cheers,
Sebastiaan
23 August 2021 at 2:31 pm #725977Thanks for those last tips. I was hoping that in this case a normal tap would do the trick because the hole for the depth adjustments is open at the bottom (it ends in the space for the screw that holds the blade to the side (and I imagined a bottoming tap would be harder to find).
I very much like the trick to use a hardened bolt and dremel tool. From what you said, I imagine that a 10-24 bolt might work, even if it is a 3/16 – 24 hole. Might be better even, I guess, if all I can buy to replace the orignal screws are 10-24 threads anyway.
I remember seeing an episode of the woodwright shop (on the PBS website) in which Roy’s blacksmith friend made threads by hand. I can’t remember in detail but I think it was similar to what you describe in using an adjustable die. Come to think of it I think I’ve seen some more modern adjustable dies on the local ‘ebay’ (one life one: https://www.marktplaats.nl/a/antiek-en-kunst/antiek-gereedschap-en-instrumenten/m1737807843-compleet-antieke-draadsnijmachine-oster-mfg-co-cleveland-in.html?previousPage=lr) and wondered about those. They seemed like intriguing tools (if these are what you mean), but not really what I would need or use.
Whenever I need a strange bolt or screw I dive into all the threading info, but always end up a bit dazzled.
I’ll let you know how get on with my plane (but could be a while – these projects usually progress in cycles of activity and inactivity…)
Cheers!
Sebastiaan
22 August 2021 at 11:13 pm #725920Thanks again Larry!
The person who gifted the plane to me checked his screws and both the side tightening screw and cut adjuster were the same thread (3/16 he thought), so it would be weird if Record used two different threads for both holes on my plane body. Maybe the threads were damaged. I’ll keep a look out for 3/16 taps on ebay to see if I can repair it after all (no room for a drill, but a tap might just fit). Hammer adjustments until then…
My local shop also has some UNC I think, so will try to get a 10-24 and see if anything fits those ‘almost m6’ holes.
I don’t have the larger planes with small screws on the totes, so can’t check for the 20 tpi option. Nice to make your own specialty screws!
Cheers again!
Sebastiaan
22 August 2021 at 11:55 am #725860Thanks a lot for that detailed information (yet again) Larry!
Plane threads have confused me before (and reading online, many others too I think). In the past, I have struggled to find screws/bolts for a stanley 78 that came without a fence or depth stop. Strangely I found that the fence hole in the body would take an M thread (forget which one now, m6?), but the depth stop body hole wouldn’t, nor would the body hole for the lever cap… I suppose someone could have retabbed the fence hole in the past..
On the 44, I looked a little closer after your information.
I did retab the depth stop hole with an m5 tab and that worked. That hole was the reason the previous owner gifted it to me. It hadn’t taken the original thumb screw and they got a new body from the person they bought it from.
The body holes for the fence rods ‘almost’ take m6s. They go in quite a way, a bit loosely initially but then tight but not all the way through. I first thought they originally might have been m6s with the bottom few threads ground away (that was going to be my solution), but looking at photos online, that doesn’t seem to be the case, so I don’t know what they are (1/4 BSW or UNC? or would that be too large to almost take an m6?).
The screw that holds the blade to the body sideways takes the same thread as the screw that holds the lever cap to my stanley 78 body (3/16 or 10-24 then probably, going on what you said). As an aside, I saw from photos online that not all 44 versions have that sideway screw. Tried to look for dating on that feature, but haven’t found it so far.
The blade depth adjustment screw hole is slightly bigger than the sideway screw hole (an m5 fits in half a turn, the 78 screw a few turns but then jams). I would still say that judging by eye (!) the thread of this hole looks a bit coarser that the other holes. I attached a photo of – supposedly – this screw that I found online, and to me it also looks coarse, but that might just be me. I can’t redrill/retab this one as the handle is in the way.
Thanks again!
Sebastiaan
PS I found a post on another forum that said Record went to metric after Unified and Whitworth on their ploughs. Not sure if that is accurate though.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 8 months ago by sebastiaan.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 8 months ago by sebastiaan.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.12 April 2021 at 9:41 am #708916Thanks everyone!
I’ll have another look at them and see if there are sizes I don’t yet have to try the grinding back method you suggested. I don’ think they’re the special ones Larry, but thanks very much for posting the photos. Quite beautiful things. Do they work well?
Thanks also for the search suggestions (should’ve thought of that).
Cheers, sebastiaan
11 April 2021 at 12:03 pm #708801Hi Gauvain,
Saw this post is a little old already and I’m certainly no expert. I did a similar search online a while ago because I had a split in a wooden spoon I made. If I recall people advised against the hide glue without prior experience, and they mentioned the very thin stuff with a syringe, as you also said. I ended up cutting out the split bit and made it an avant garde spoon… because I didn’t want glue on a spoon for safety and because it would get wet over and over again, so can’t give practical advice on that thin glue, sorry.
If I were you I would probably just use wood glue, force as much in as you can, then keep the crack closed (with your finger or tape), and tighten and loosen a clamp a few times, so the glue spreads inward (since it can’t get out the crack). You can perhaps even try to force in more after the first time (before the first batch dries obviously). Then, I might put a dowel (or two) through for extra strength.
Just what I’d probably do if it is mainly a user and not a collectors’ item.
I’d be interested to hear what you did.
Cheers,
Sebastiaan
-
AuthorPosts