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29 March 2022 at 5:36 pm #753996
Thanks Ed – I did not know the difference between a spindle gouge and a bowl gouge. Got almost in trouble as I picked up the former yesterday. Will grab a bowl gouge. I used to do spindle turning exclusively (table legs, chess pieces etc.) so I am new to bowl turning.
29 March 2022 at 3:32 pm #753982Thanks for the info. If I cannot use my turning tools how am I to turn the disk? Yes it will be in the traditional orientation with the grain running perpendicular to the bed of the lathe, parallel to the head. I always assumed from my books you can use a gouge to shape it? What am I missing? Or is a spindle gouge different than a bowl gouge? Sorry – it has been 30 years since I last used the lathe. This is what I have:
Update: Found this https://turnawoodbowl.com/bowl-gouge-vs-spindle-gouge/ – learnt something today. I used to do spindle work exclusively (table legs, chess pieces etc) so face plate work is new to me. Will get a bowl gouge and use the rest of the set I have for detailing.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 1 month ago by Waldo Nell.
23 May 2021 at 7:34 pm #714379[postquote quote=714361]
Yeah I did watch that a while ago, and is probably what I will do but my table is going to be 800mm wide so it will be a bit hard to put it sideways like that…
23 May 2021 at 7:23 pm #714377[postquote quote=714343]
Umm unless I am misreading you, I am not 3m tall. The top is taller than I am.
23 May 2021 at 7:22 am #714339Just noticed it when flattening the face. It has three broken pieces like that about 2” part in a line. Cannot say if it is moving yet. Will clamp and check.
31 March 2021 at 5:03 pm #707339Thanks for the response. I was thinking about strength and durability. I have two table tops I am making – one is a 460mm x 350mm from two 460mm x 175mm and 30mm thick boards (walnut) with no apron – it will have four pillars to support it (part of a HiFi stand), the other is a 2m x 700mm top supported by two side frames only, 30mm thick, made from eastern maple. It will be a combination of 4 x 175 mm boards.
21 February 2021 at 12:11 am #702099I tried again – is this better? I dropped the second stretcher to give me more room. 99% of the load will be pure gravity. It is not a workbench that will experience lots of lateral forces therefore I thought it was safe to drop that second stretcher.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.20 February 2021 at 8:27 pm #702070This seems similar to what I am trying to accomplish – minus the end caps and vices.
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/no-nonsense-workbench/
20 February 2021 at 8:21 pm #702069Hi Sven-Olof. Funny you mention it – I own that exact workbench. Is there a big difference between my square frames and the trestle based approach in terms of stability, functionality and strength? I want to get away from that low center beam design.
20 February 2021 at 8:17 pm #702065I have made some adjustments. The top shelf is a removable piece so do not focus on that too much for now. I added a beam to the back of the two side frames to prevent leg wobble.
The load is not uniformly spread out. The heaviest items will be placed closer to the sides, nearer to the support frames. I calculated it and it seems fine even without my I beam so I think it will be ok. See attachments.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.20 February 2021 at 6:44 pm #702052Thanks for your response. I think I watched almost all of Paul’s videos. I even built my own chess table based on his how to build a table series and chessboard series, with drawers etc so I understand the theory.
However, none of the projects you mentioned would work for me. I do not want an apron around the edges. If I am sitting on a stool I do not want to bump in to that. Also this is a combo sit / stand table so the workbench is out. However it needs to carry a load so it has to be strong and reinforced.
Hence my question if my design would work and if it does, how do I join the I beam in the middle? (Which is far enough from my legs that it would not interfere with sitting).
22 November 2019 at 5:44 pm #629722Normally I also prefer mortise chisels for chopping mortises, however in this case I am making Paul’s eco bin, and the only chisel I have that is the same thickness than my plywood is the veritas bench chisel. So… I have no choice 🙁
20 November 2019 at 6:50 pm #629117I am using this mallet now: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/mallets/50229-veritas-cabinetmakers-mallet
Not sure if that wood is softer than the handle though… I think the problem was not how hard I hit it (any softer and it would not penetrate the oak), but rather like Larry alluded to – that the brass mallet was wrong for this purpose, as it clearly is much harder.
20 November 2019 at 4:35 pm #629081I did view that video. But please – I have stated this more than two times already here, I did NOT chop hard. It takes me 20 – 30 minutes to chop a small mortise – Paul does 8 in 17 minutes. I never chop deeper than 2 – 3 mm. I never lever. I did not hit the chisel hard. I have made perhaps 30 mortises before with this chisel with no problem, the 31th or so it broke. I did *not* hit it hard.
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