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I based my original assessment on the apparent size of the thumbscrew. The plane can be used to cut housings, albeit for very thick boards. I estimate the blade is about an inch wide since the thumbscrew would fit a thumb, the quick way to estimate an inch from tip to first knuckle. Using the tool as a rebate plane is also possible with a guide in any case. It just seems a very practical use keeping in scale with making furniture.
It is a rare find indeed! This is a plane for making crossbow bolts out of the, now extinct, Norse Four-leaf Rose Pine. It is only functional during the Hour of the Owl on the night of the fifth blue moon of the year. The unfortunate legend is that the user will grow a long beard in the middle of his forehead. I am willing to make the sacrifice and relieve you of this burden for the good of mankind…
Truly a remarkable piece of kit. It is a rebate plane. The blade is full width so it enables you to plane a rebate in both directions with one depth setting. If you encounter reversing grain, just plane in the opposite direction. Or you may plow a rebate all around the piece without resetting the plane even if the grain on the other edge of the board reverse direction The brass screw will set the depth via the foot you see inset in the bottom. If you plane a rebate in the other direction, just plane the rebate watching your gauge line rather than depending on the depth stop. A rebate cut in the opposite direction may be stepped if the blade is not wider than the sole, but that is easily remedied with some clean-up paring. The front blade is a double nicker that will allow cross-grain rebates by cutting the fibers ahead of the blade. You are quite fortunate to own this little gem, my friend! Enjoy!
Greg, I just realized it may not be clear how the square edge or guide, the vertical part with the metal plate that guides the chisel, gets fixed in place. If you look at the bottom of the jig you can just see some threaded inserts. There are screws that go through the slots and into the bottom piece to fix the square edge where you want it. Loosen the screws, adjust the position, and tighten it in place. Then you either clamp the bottom piece to the work or place the whole jig and material in your vise. Stay safe and healthy.
Hi Greg,
Yes, the square edge slides to adjust for the distance of the mortise from the edge of the material. The jig can be clamped in place for use on the workbench surface or it can be clamped in the vise together with the material to be mortised. Either way it works fine. Glad to help out.
Stay safe and healthy. All the best
@gman The product I know of for “water replacement” is called polyethylene glycol, PEG for short. I recall having heard about it and many singing the praises. That was at least 30 years ago. I haven’t heard anything about the product lately and don’t know where to get it. Good luck!
To be accurate, I did say “per all visual comparisons.” Here are pictures from Paul’s blog of the Workforce Aldi and the Harbor Freight chisels. Both are etched “Chrome Vanadium.” The HF chisels perform excellently! They hold an edge well in the hardest of local tropical woods which i work most often. All had ground backs but polished very easily on initialization, surprisingly most of the backs were rough but flat. The feel is solid while cutting mortises and paring. The tangs and handles work well together. Paul may not like the top and bottom ferrules, but none have come loose. All these are made in China, probably in related, or the same, factory with names and apperances to suit different chain stores. Oversimplifying the comparison to the point of “wood, metal, China” is… well, unfair in any case and to these tools.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.In the US, the Harbor Freight chisel set is, per all visual comparisons, identical to the Aldi. Six piece set for USD9.99, https://www.harborfreight.com/wood-chisel-set-6-pc-62641.html I have been using them for about a year and they are excellent!
- This reply was modified 6 years, 7 months ago by rafi.
I dont know of any modern retoothing machines, surely there is something out there for you.
It is quite a coincidence that you start this thread on retoothing and I am, as I write, retoothing a tenon saw by hand following Paul’s instructional video. I ruined the saw a few days ago as I was sharpening it, 20 TPI (very small teeth) combined with the incorrect file. Lesson learned!
Best of luck on your search! I’m hoping for the best in my endeavour. 😀
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