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I used to have the opposite issue until I moved away from water stones to diamond stones. My water stones always hollowed out no matter how hard I tried to flatten them.
Could it be that you are putting extra pressure at the centre of the blade while sharpening?Interesting video. But I think one should be very cautious while interpreting these results.
We all know that wood is very anisotropic with exceptional strength along the grain and relatively weak in the cross-grain direction. Furniture design takes that into account and wooden structures critically depend on the high strength along the grain. End grain glue joint may be stronger than a side grain glue joint but it’s still much much weaker than unbroken wood along the grain. And that’s the critical point relevant for design.
In other words, gluing sideways to make a wider board does not affect the integrity of the material — it may even enhance it as most glues are stronger than wood in the cross-grain direction. But pieces glued end to end is substantially weaker than a long single piece of same dimension. Whether its stronger than a side-to-side joint (as shown in the video) is more of an academic curiosity.
Thanks Jukka Huuskonen and Sven-Olof Jansson.
From What Sven is saying I’m tempted to buy. Will see how it feels in the hand in the local LV store — in case its the same version as the one Jukka had trouble with the peeled plating. All said, I get the feeling that my unrated Stanely 965-N is probably is as good as these new offerings — though mine has dangling jaws, works well once the bit is loaded. A vintage brace — Stanley 2101A that every one vouches for, or even a 923 or an old Miler Falls is still worth looking for — but ebay is not my favourite shopping place.. With COVID the local antique tools show is also on hold.
As for 2-jaws, you can get an adapter for hex shanks — I haven’t used one though. And I don’t have any round shank bits suitable for hand drilling. Using Forstner bits with a brace would take more expertise than I have and some pressure as there is no snail — those are meant for higher speed drilling isn’t it?
Thanks again.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 7 months ago by Selva.
@Jukka Is the cheaper version you referred to from the same manufacturer (“made in France” one)? Looks like the same as the one Lee Valley sells too (not the Delux one). Rob Lee from LV did not have much praise for them — in a forum he wrote years ago about their new brace offering: “The new braces are pretty much worth what you pay for ’em…. they’re not high precision tools, and we offer for folks that need ’em. Having said that – old braces can be worth more than you pay for them…” He was alluding to buyers who don’t like old tools and want “new”.
I have an old Stanley 965-N which works okay though the chuck jaws don’t stay open and dangles inside when loosened (some spring missing or an old design). It takes a bit of fiddling to insert the shank of the bit. Have been looking for an old Stanley 2101A or similar on ebay. But its hard to judge the condition of what ebay sellers offer and shipping costs are exorbitant to Canada most of the time. As we have nothing useful in flea markets near where I live, tempted to get a new one with a feedback that’s better than a “so so”.
Thanks,
- This reply was modified 3 years, 7 months ago by Selva.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 7 months ago by Selva.
As Colin said, make from softwood: pine, or cedar or even construction wood. I built it from decking cedar, came out fine at least by my (“forever in-training”) standards. Or buy rough sawn oak and dimension yourself. You may not save much but the experience of dimensioning by hand is nice (hard work that pays off) and will have a lot of left over for smaller projects.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 8 months ago by Selva.
You may find it hard to come up with a consistent definition of “pound cut”. The term itself is supposed to be introduced by manufacturers in different era and probably never had a clear definition. Zinsser, one of the leading manufacturer who popularised shellac in the US, in their 1913 publication of “The Story of Shellac” only state vague descriptions of “cuts” like X pound of of shellac in a gallon, without saying whether its US or imperial gallon. In those days many such products were sold in the US and Canada and it was common to label products in both U.S. gallon and Imperial gallon. So we cant just assume that a publication from New York just took gallon to mean U.S. gallon.
Until now I had just assumed its US gallon as that also matches well with the 1:8 ratio one sees mentioned all over the place. But think about it, it could be imperial gallon as that saves them money. In more modern documents Zinsser says a 3-lb cut has 29% of shellac but don’t say whether that’s by weight or volume or a mishmash of both.
Not that any of these have any real consequence for use of shellac for finishing… Just adjust the ratio until it feels right..
- This reply was modified 3 years, 8 months ago by Selva.
It indicates the stock for the vertical slats (spindles) is made by splitting, not sawing to the 1″ width. See the beginning of episode 4. https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/garden-bench/garden-bench-episode-4/
An OT comment: I was told more than one link in a post is held back for moderation but my experience has been more nuanced than that. Anyway, it seems to serve no real purpose than to irritate legitimate users, IMO. Spammers have to just use one link and a legitimate post will be held-up (or never show up) even if the links are internal to this site — like to other relevant posts or a video.
In North America try: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/hardware/hinges
@Mark68 If you buy directly from LeeValley (Veritas), the price now is USD 69.50 (about £54). But shipping is at least £16 to the UK (for the cheapest and slowest option and may vary with destination address). All excluding VAT. See Veritas-#80
The axminster link you posted shows £67.08 + VAT, so slightly cheaper if they will ship free to you.
@alan141 Thanks for the pointer. Following up on that I found a number of useful blog posts like this one https://paulsellers.com/2011/09/saw-handles-revisited/ and a few more close to that period. That lost video you mention would have been nice find if its still in the cyberspace, but no luck within my search foo.
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