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Yeah I’ll have to consider those end blocks for the next stone I get, if ever. Finally done up with my oilstone boxes. I’ve found out chopping the recesses gets easier once I’ve got a rhythm going. Got to learn a lot about handling the router plane too. I should’ve used a wooden base, and perhaps avoided deep gouges along the edges of the recess.
I went basic with this as I figured it’s an improvement no matter what versus keeping a nice stone just wrapped in a paper towel. I had another cheap SiC/AlO 8″ combination stone that was being kept in the original cardboard packaging so I made one for it too.
The smaller 5″ stone was a hand-down from my late father in law and I think despite its size it’s remarkably useful. I can’t identify it but it’s hard enough that it doesn’t dish yet despite many sharpenings now. It can raise a burr quickly if I use it aggresively, but can also produce a fine edge if I lighten the stroke. Only needs a strop after. I’d guess it’s a 600-800 geit from the scratch pattern. You can see the ends are in bad shape as I got it, so I think end blocks are not suitable.
On Paul’s blog he mentioned keeping a slightly loose fit for the lid and I figured you’d need to take out combination stones frequently to swap sides over so I went with that. I once got it so snug I had trouble taking out the test fit, hence I trimmed 1mm on two sides of the recess.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.That’s the exact article I referenced a bit in my toolbox build. That’s one of the earlier fall front tool boxes in many that Paul has described and built. I quite like the plywood fronts and backs as they are are easier to build and more on the utilitarian side. I think eventually the panelled frame fronts and lidded tool chests were favored in the masterclass projects.
I went a bit bigger in dimension to house all my woodworking tools but looking back it would be great to have a smaller more portable one.
For saws you’d have to go with steel or brass backed tenon saws. If you have or can find smaller panel saws that fit it would be great to have on the fall front too. I traced inside the handles to fashion mounting blocks to the lid. It doesn’t rattle at all if you get it snug.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.It’s too bad I read this late into making a box myself.. That’s a great idea to put end stops! So you only run end strokes on it? I’m thinking of you start the strokes on the blocks you run the risk of catching the edge or corner of your stone. What’s the plan once the stone wears? I’m guessing you also have to trim the blocks as you go through the life of the stone?
I’m a bit overwhelmed halfway into chopping my first recess of my first box. I realized I could only go down 1/8″ in one row of vertical chops after cleaning up with the no.71. Takes me 45mins and I have a lot more to go. Is this too slow a pace or just par for the course for an 8″ run?
Considering a lot of instruction for woodworking is in imperial, I’ve gottem used to it and prefer it for woodworking. My training in engineering has led me to metric, but a lot of old timer engineers will still talk in kips and psf’s. Sometimes imperial units are more intuitive or visual as to metric which reads too cold from eye to mind. If that makea sense.
I can tell or visualize 1/4.1/8 or 1/16 or relate to the human body measures of 36″ 24″ etc that I doubt reading plans in metric will impart to me.
That said it’s also good to ne adaptable to both and know a few key conversions. Like I know 3/8 is 10mm automatically, and fractions of either are easy to figure in the head. There are others of course and not just in lengths. Another convenient mind ‘sticky’ for example, and useful to say, shellac cuts and mixing, is a quart is almost a liter, or 3.78L makes a gallon.
I have bought a Rapier 043 over ebay.uk some time ago. It’s a copy of the Record version, and from what I gathered before buying it was decent enough. I guess my advice is to make sure the accessories are complete for what you need (cutters, thumbscrews, shoe, rods, etc), mine only has two cutters and while it’s good enough to make a groove for box or drawer bottoms, I wish it came with the narrower cutters to make a snug fit to thinner plywoods. It’s no big issue though and there are workarounds. Eventually the condition of the plane is what sealed the deal, and yes being in SE Asia I do pay more for shipping from UK, but for a small item it’s not so bad.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.What works for me is to set it down on the workbench with the blade on and the cap loose. While laying flat push the iron as far as it will go, which will be at the same level roughly as the sole, as long as your workbench surface is flat. Then pre-tension the screw cap on, just enough that it wont wobble loose when you lift up the plane from the bench.
From here, give the blade an ever so light nudge (which I think is a gentler term for tap) further, with a small piece of wood or stick. Then tighten down the screw cap. If you got the blade and sole level with each other when the plane was set down, this slight nudge should be enough. It takes some feeling about to get familiar with how much to set for a light shaving.
Try to take note where you’re putting pressure on your iron and where you tend to spend the most time on the stone. In my case if I put 3 or 4 fingers evenly behind the cutting edge I notice I tend to wear the metal more on the trailing corner (if you hold the iron the way Paul does where the cutting edge is on a diagonal). If I adjust my finger placement more to the opposite corner, then that evens out just in a few sharpening sessions.
So it may be down to observing how you tend to hold the iron in relation to the stone, and seeing where you wear the metal. The make adjustments.
Yes that’s it. The surface to be planed becomes too high to work on comfortably (for planing stops or clamp in vise), and there isn’t a clean inside face for the vise jaws to hold onto. I’m liking the sawhorse method on the RW channel. Thanks to the poster with that lead, I think I have a few ideas now I could keep in mind the next time I run into this situation.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 10 months ago by HR.
Hello Maik,
I’ve just finished my workbench and in the beginning I was also contemplating if I can get away with a smaller footprint. Mine is 120 x 78cm. Sure it could work and it seems plenty sturdy to me. Paul on one of his blogs also addressed if 4ft can be a minimum for the space limited folks. Weights could be used to add more mass, but I find it’s not necessary at all.
Here’s a visual for you of what that size might look like.
Regards,
HR
- This reply was modified 6 years, 11 months ago by HR.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 11 months ago by HR.
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