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I’ve seen that with brand new tools. The carbon in the steel gets depleted during heat treat and it takes a few sharpenings to get down to good steel, it was pretty minor and the edge would just crumble while sharpening. Or it could be bad steel, bad heat treatment or tempering, or it could have been overheated at some point. I wouldn’t think that the outside temperature would have an effect, and if your getting the steel hot by sharpening you should see oxide coloration on it.
I’ve been using a good quality natural fiber paint brush for shellac and have found that it doesn’t soften in just the shellac very fast. I think that the brush that Paul has used in the videos is very thin which probably makes the process go faster. So I just clean my brush in denatured alcohol.
As Matt said denatured alcohol is regular old drinking alcohol (ethanol) but it is mixed with methanol. Methanol or methyl alcohol, or methyl hydrate, or wood alcohol, is supposed to work as well. Now methanol is highly toxic, ingest 10ml you go blind, 30ml you die. Where I live denatured alcohol is very easy to find and is very cheap so that is what I use.
Your antiseptic alcohol is probably just isopropyl alcohol. A quick search suggests that will work as well.
Thanks @jeffpolaski and @antilegion
The walnut is finished with boiled linseed oil and shellac. I used a Millwaukee 10/14 TPI portaband blade that I got from the big box store. I think that this is the same blade that Paul had mentioned on his blog.
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