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Dieter Schmid do a handy william greave “gents” dovetail saw (http://www.fine-tools.com/fein.htm)
It’s a little bit of effort to start the cut, but I’ve found it very effective once you get used to it, it’s 15tpi which is about the max that Paul recommends for sharpening yourself.Personally, I don’t find gents saw handles that comfortable, but as I only use it to make numbers of cuts at a time, I put up with that.
I haven’t had to sharpen it myself yet as it still cuts well.
Only issue with pallets is removing the wood without splitting it – best to take it slow and steady, and expect lots of wastage. It often cleans up very nicely though once you plane it.
My father in law reduced the cost by getting 2x4s from wickes which weren’t planed square edge – took him a lot of time to plane down to remove the rounded corners…
Is the brass back straight? Check that first I guess. Worst case scenario is having to remove the blade from the back to straighten it, then put it back in afterwards. I’ve seen some you tube videos on it, I’ll see if I can find them again.
You might be able to just overhang the brass back so it isn’t on the mdf, and get away with straightening that way, probably worth trying that first (i once broke a dovetail saw blade that was very thin when I was removing it because I didn’t have a vise that could clamp the entire blade properly)
I followed similar advice to that presented in this thread:
I.e. starting with 220 grit and working up through the grades – be prepared to clean up lots of rusty gunk afterwards – I generally work outside with lots of rags on standby.
For straightening, I again have a thread to suggest: https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/discussions/topic/saw-straightening-success-and-how-i-did-it/
As I mentioned in my reply to the thread, this worked perfectly for me.
P.s. you got the tools for a good price, cheapest I’ve bought a number 4 for was £5, but that was a real ruster, better condition ones are £10+ Number 5’s and 4.5s generally seem to be in the £15-£20 range.
Happy New Year!
I’m not an expert, but I have restored a couple of saws and found that wet’n’dry paper coupled with liberal applications of wd40 was quite effective for rust. Some people seem to rate a product called evapo-rust for removing rust, but I haven’t tried that myself. I have used some hammerite rust removal gel, but that leaves a coating on the saw which needs to be removed afterwards.
I’m not clear what you mean about the dovetail saw not being square, could it be that the saw is deliberately tapered/canted? See this link http://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/01/20/the-advantages-of-saws-with-tapered-or-canted-blades/
I am no expert, but when reading up on using a plough plane, I read an interesting quote on http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/combihow3.html
“Other than that the same technique applies as ordinary planing – pressure towards the toe at the start of the cut, towards the heel at the end. Basically try and plane it hollow and you’ll avoid the evils of dipping ends (sounds nasty). “
So, based on that, it sounds like you need to ease up the pressure on the front of the plane as you push it away from yourself.
Certainly this technique worked when I planed tongue and grooves the other weekend, so why not give it a go and see if that helps.
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