Forum Replies Created
You my have a frankenplane. Meaning that the casting is a Record and the parts are Stanley? Perhaps the mouth has been filed to accept a thicker iron. Thicker irons are available for those planes from Veritas but they’re not cheap. Glad you got a 4 1/2 to work for you.
Find out the angle at which the cutting iron is bedded in the plane and add whatever number that equates to 50 degrees and you have the angle at which to grind the iron. for me it would be trial and error to get the result you are looking for. I can’t see why you shouldn’t be able to have several irons with different bevel cutting edges for your coffin smoother. you can also try a toothing iron for aggressive stock removal as well.
I think Paul was referring to a bevel up plane. Bevel up planes offer some convenience that you can just switch the iron instead of changing the frog. I do have a bevel up plane with several irons i find they work decently. If you are planing very hard highly figured wood,I would tend to reach for a No.80 cabinet scraper then perhaps a card scraper. I usually just use what works for me. It is my opinion that once you start getting up into higher pitch irons you are getting into the NO.80 realm of cutting geometry.
Paul has a video on easing the edges on the sole of the plane. I would suggest you watch it. There is a small rounded part on the bed of the casting beneath the tote (forget the proper term) that gets dinged up on occasion that could cause unnecessary gouging on the workpiece.
I have the diamond plate you are referring to. With harder steel compositions, I’ve had better results with the extra fine DMT plate then to the strop with the green compound from LV. So the process I use with A2 steel is Atoma 140>400>1200> DMT extra fine> strop. This process I find works for me. I have had success going to the strop from the 1200 Atoma.
Mix up some boric acid(borax)and water in a spray bottle and spray them down. Do a test area first as it may stain the wood. This is the least harmful to wood and environmentally friendly method I have heard of. Don’t store those near or in your house/or workshop until you are convinced they are all dead. Those deadbeat tenants do nothing but destroy your house and they’re not paying any rent. I personally would not use the boards at all. I would take them to the landfill. Or have a nice fire. Termites are a colonizing insect that can burrow into the soil and destroy every home in their path. They consume cellulose (wood). Oak is a delicacy for them. Worse than cockroaches.
Most of these type of planes in user condition I’ve seen with the wooden base attached. It is a safe assumption that this was done to prevent the nickel plating from wear, causing the plane to corrode. I can’t speculate whether you will get a good polish on it compared to a premium hand plane. That would depend on the quality of iron composition. Back in the day it was generally pretty good (although it being nickel plated it may not be)It is your plane you can do what you wish with it. The wax would be better if you were to lap the sole thus removing the nickel plating. If you were to attach the wooden base, you could use the wax as well.
Sometimes you have to put the tools down and study the piece. Plan your approach. Stay calm. Keep it well supported on both ends and the middle. Start on the low part with your #5 go on an angle toward the high part in a cross-hatching pattern. Knock the high spots down. Then back the iron off and go with the grain. Sometimes the less downward force on the front knob of the plane the better. Finish off with your #4(slight camber on the irons of both planes)with the iron set for very fine shavings this should be close enough. When you feel re-inspired,get to it! You are almost there compared to the previous picture.