Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
30 October 2015 at 9:15 am #131901
Frank, thank you very much, good tip, #4 plane is not the same as a rebate plane, I didn’t think of that. I ordered a #4 plane and I hope it’s good enough, otherwise I’ll look for another one. There are some good woodworking websites here. So now I just need a rebate plane, either make one or buy a cheap old one.
Matt, that’s a idea, which I could do if rebating is too difficult. My plan is to do more wood working construction than only the windows so I just want to learn all different steps.
Also with glueing a rod on your stock, there will be a large seam/glue line, so more change of water damage.Ok construction-grade softwood, I will inform extra about this when I buy some. For now there is stock on the attic, so I’ll have to sort out the best ones, but I think it’s maybe better to just buy new stock, not so expensive. Stock on the attic is more for wall construction etc, long stock and crooked.
Outward windows yes ok, and it’s in a wood working place, otherwise windows lean over the working bench when openend.
Thanks Frank and Matt
Greetings Hella, Follega, Friesland, The Netherlands.30 October 2015 at 12:02 am #131880Sven-Olaf , apologies accepted. For what I don’t know, hahaha.
Bridle joint is thus, a open Mortice & Tenon and with rebates it will be offset.
A open Mortice & Tenon has more cuts , so therefor more chance of catching water. I understand that it will be easier to make a open Mortice & Tenon, especially on smaller stock.Here in the Netherlands the general idea is, for the outermost frame, the one that will be fixed in de wall, has an top and bottom and in between the styles and middle styles, these will be under and above the top and bottom styles.
So the best thing would be to do Mortises & tenons was it not for the extra work.The window pane frame, will have the styles next to the top and bottom.
If windows open outward, it’s easier take out the window, burglars.
But they can also just break the glass, so that’s a lame excuse.If windows open outward, the rebates of the fixed frame will be towards the inside, which is, I thinks also better. Ok so I’ll make them outwards.
I can’t wait to start….have some old chisels here but very rusty, so I can start to practise a little. Also take down the wood from the attic.
I als am using the cheapest wood, no hard wood.
What kind of glue do you use for outside?
Thanks Sven for you feedback!!!!
29 October 2015 at 8:38 pm #131870Thanks Sven-Olaf, great picture, that’s the one joint I’ll be making. Hopefully if I do it as Paul Sellers shows, there will be no gabs. Also I use waterproof glue that will fill up any tiny gabs.
I ordered some cheap tools to start with. Wood is laying on the attic of the barn, waiting to be cut.
My biggest worry was, the making of the rebates. I see now, through all of the feedback of you guys and galls, that you can just use a plane, rebate plane which you can make yourself or other plane.
I ordered a number 4 plane. If I make a guide on the outside of the plane, I can use it for making the rebates.
Next worry is, how to design the window. It wil be a opening window, 2 parts. First I make a frame with deep rebates. Than 2 frames with double glass. Those 2 windows have to fit in the big frame. What is the best way, windows opening inward or outward, concerning the rain etc. (sorry I don’t know all the english window terms)? I see it as one big frame with rebates, and 2 similar frames containing the glass, made in the same way as the big frame, that fit into the big frame. So a frame in a frame. The bottom part of the frame is not square, for draining the water.
I’ll start with making a small test frame first.
29 October 2015 at 8:15 pm #131867Thanks Barryb, what a great character Roy Undehill is. I’ll look into it.
29 October 2015 at 12:49 pm #131855Thanks Tim, very useful video. I just love the poor man’s tools.
Now I see how I can make the rebates and also I can make them as deep as possible.
I do believe it’s quicker than using the chisel only.
Thank you Tim for your advise.
Thanks Paul Seller for one of his many gifts.
Greetings,
Hella
The Netherlands, Follega, Friesland, the most pretty country side of Holland.28 October 2015 at 10:35 pm #131842I saw a video, where they use planes to saw away the corner, in order to make a rebate. The plane is the guide and when one surface is done, that surface is the guide for the plane and the second surface can be planed.
I intend to chisel away the corner fist, like you’ll do with a tennon. I can use planes to make the surfaces flat and square to each other.
However I’ll be working with large lengths and therefor I thought of using a poor man router, making a guide so that I can plane all 4 sides of the window frame by using the router.
28 October 2015 at 9:53 pm #131841Hi Wesley, great video. So it’s a rebate I’m looking for. There is a dutch word, rabat,looks a bit similar.
My goal is to make those rebates by hand, chisel and poor man’s router. I have no machines.
So I thought to make a frame first, joining through mortice and tennon and than make the rebates, with chisel and poor man’s router. If I do it in this order I can use the frame as a guide. Now that I think of it, the depth whereby you’ll have to plane the rebates is too much if you have thick window post, when you do it in this order. Maybe I’t better to make the rebates before putting the frame together? Still there is no guide. There will be a lot of depth, enough space for a double glass window, 21 mm in a another frame, say 6 cm. This means that the router has to go 6 cm deep if you want to use the top of the beam as a guide and I don’t think the chisel in the router can plane at that depth, less force go’s through the chisel. So the question is, ” how do you make a rebate (without using machinery)”?.28 October 2015 at 12:31 pm #131831Hi Wesley, thanks for your advise. I can see a video project “Joiner’s toolbox”, is this the one you mean? Are there other free video’s?
With the groove I mean simply the inside of the L in a L-shaped beam. In The Netherlands this is called a groove (sponning). So double glas will be placed on de short arm of the L. So what I want to make is, taking out a L shape part out of de corner of a wooden beam.
I think the best way (with my present knowledge) is, using chissle and the poor man’s router.I will google frame panel woodworking.
Hella
-
AuthorPosts