Bookshelves: Episode 8

ep8

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In this episode, Paul shows the layout for the mortices on the cross rails. He then demonstrates various options for grooving the back frame to receive the tongue and groove boards and finishes by cutting the tenons and mortices.

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17 Comments

  1. STEVE MASSIE on 19 March 2014 at 3:51 pm

    Paul and staff another great video thanks for this, I am learning so much from these. I have a Stanley #45 and a Auburn Tool Wooden plough but haven’t had much luck or experience using either yet.

    Steve

    • smfield on 19 March 2014 at 7:52 pm

      The key is a sharp cutter, well set in the body to take off only several thou of wood.

      • RL on 6 April 2014 at 12:16 am

        When the groove is well-established, I can remove very thick shavings with each pass. I even find that ploughing against the grain helps to pull the plane even deeper into the wood.
        Once I get close to the finish depth, I reduce the thickness of each pass to smooth out the groove bottom.

  2. Jnavarrojr on 20 March 2014 at 1:20 am

    Great series! Was wondering if y’all wouldn’t mind posting a short or a diagram on how to prepare the plough plane iron? I have the veritas and it was doing exactly what Paul mentioned…even though it’s sharp. Thought it was just me.

  3. Gareth Martin on 20 March 2014 at 6:59 pm
    • D.J. King on 20 March 2014 at 9:19 pm

      Gareth,

      …And a steal at only £330-I’m kidding of course. Seriously though it looks like a beauty and a tool like that is definitely what Paul calls a lifetime tool. This is the logic I use to justify my investment in the best tools I can find. I have yet to regret spending money on any tool no matter what the price I paid.

      • smfield on 21 March 2014 at 7:05 pm

        In North America the wooden ploughs go for much less. Try eBay international if your in the UK?

  4. D.J. King on 20 March 2014 at 9:11 pm

    Paul,

    Great tip on filing the iron of the Veritas plough plane. I love my plough and wouldn’t trade it for the world, but did notice the binding you mentioned because it lacks relief. I was also glad to see your incorporation of moulding planes. Few things make me feel more like a traditional artisan as using hollows and rounds and moulding planes. Great stuff.

    • smfield on 21 March 2014 at 7:08 pm

      Here, here to you. The pleasure derived from using a side escapement moulding plane is immense and not describable. I always try to find a use for my H&A’s.

  5. billstennett on 21 March 2014 at 12:49 am

    I like the idea of planing a bead / quadrant on the edge of a board and sawing it off but – do you just have to saw the bead off really accurately or can you plane the sawn edge afterwards? It would be interesting to see an example of this technique on a long piece to see how best to get it right!

    • RL on 6 April 2014 at 12:20 am

      The hardest part is holding the small bead in place to be able to plane it. It tends to move around a lot. I use a V-shaped jig with a screw in the end to act like a stop, but it is a bit of a pain, particularly if the wood is slightly warped.

  6. Charles Hart on 23 March 2014 at 12:07 am

    I wish I could capture the sense of peace I have after every episode. I have six custom book cases to build and this has been a revelation. I really like this project it is very timely for me. Thank you.

    Charles Hart
    Renton, WA. U.S.

  7. RL on 6 April 2014 at 12:13 am

    In one of Paul’s videos, I remember he showed a technique for cleaning up the fuzz on the top edges of a groove before ploughing it, but I can’t find it. I thought it might be repeated in the eighth episode of the bookshelf series but it is not.

    Can anyone point me in the right direction as this is a problem I always come up against? I use the Veritas plough plane fyi.

    • Greg Merritt on 6 April 2014 at 1:17 am

      Try episode 3 of the Wall Clock.

      • RL on 6 April 2014 at 6:19 am

        Thanks Greg, but I couldn’t find what I was looking for in that episode. I think it was more than merely marking the edges with a marking gauge.

        I have 70 feet to tongue and groove in the next week or so and would love to have that tip up my sleeve if I need it!

  8. Dave on 6 April 2014 at 5:04 pm

    RL – if you are plowing against the grain you can knife down the sides of the groove or saw down. Paul demos this in one of the videos but I can’t remember which one. Once the groove is done , sandpaper the edges slightly to remove the fuzziness.

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