12 Comments

  1. Paul mentioned that the dome head screws he used weren’t ment to be used with a drill driver. How does he know that? How do we know, when buying such kind of screws, if they can be used with a drill driver?

    Also, how did he know that his walls were 90 degrees, where the table was placed? How did he measure that, with a big square…?

    Thanks and congrats for another great project!

    1. I asked Paul and his answer is below:

      Slot head screws were never designed for mass production drill driver driven screws. They were designed for turn screws or screwdrivers. That doesn’t mean that nobody installed a flat head screw driver bit into a drill driver just that it was never the original intent. On the other hand all hex head torx square head torx were all designed to be power driven.

      I just took a big square and held it to the wall. Alternatively if you don’t have a big square take a measurement at the corner where the two walls meet and mark 4 ft along. The other wall mark 3 ft. Stretch a tape between the two points diagonally if it measures 5ft then the corner is square. This is called the 3-4-5 method. This will work with any increments you choose.

  2. Hi Paul,
    Could you please explain why you didn’t use turn-buttons that you usuallly do? Is this for asthetic reasons?
    You did mention that you used very dry wood but would this way of using screws work for most scenarios and wood types we use?
    Thanks,
    Laxmi

  3. Just wondering about width of boards for gluing up the table top or any table top for that matter. I have some beautifully figured red oak 10 inches wide for this project. Something tells me don’t glue up a few 10 inch wide pieces for the top. In Paul’s projects that I have looked at the boards are not this wide. Is there a give or take standard width? I am thinking warping may be a problem with wider boards.

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