17 Comments

  1. Howdy Paul!

    …as said in Texas. You make it look easy! Even after attending the “foundation” class you led at Homestead Heritage in 2004 and two others there after (The Brazos Rocker, and your son’s dining room table as a private class.), I can not work as fast or precise as do you. While I will remain a “novice” to the end of my days (I am 68), I assure you I have had GREAT FUN attempting to improve my skills while building furniture! Besides, as a five year long retiree, the hobby keeps me physically and mentally engaged!

    This method of instruction is singularly great! The videos allow one to: (1) View what you are doing up close; (2) Review a step not understood; (3) When I have time and anxious to learn; and (4) At a reasonable price! What more could a student ask for?

    THANK YOU!
    Steve

    1. Yes, I might, but using the knifewall method guarantees shoulder lines are dead square provided you work dead to the line. Therefore, in general, you would not need a shoulder plane correction. Remember that shoulder planes came into their own on the wide shoulders of large office and entryway doors to shops and stores. When extruded aluminium doors replaced them we stopped using shoulder planes because such wide shoulder lines were rare. The don’t work to well on rails narrower than say 3-4″ and as said, you don;t really need them. That said, I do like them for the face or cheeks of tenons for trimming off a thou or two.

  2. Liking this project, looks like we’ll learn joints, skills and techniques that can be reused on a host of different styles of tables.

    Just wondering why a sloped ten ono is being used in this piece as opposed to a normal hunched tendon. Is there a purpose or is it just an aesthetic addition?

  3. Regards the gap in the shoulder (on the inside face) – you say don’t worry about it for now. I’m curious how it even happened. You are always knifing the lines with the square, on all four sides. So all four shoulders should fit perfectly, yet the back one looked to be a good 1/32″ off.

    What happened?

  4. Very interesting exposition of various methods of making tenons! But when Paul ends episode 2 by saying “and that’s how I would cut my tenons” I wonder which method he would instinctively “reach for”.

  5. … I remember when Tage Frid weighed in on the subject in back to back articles with Ian Kirby in the first year of Fine Wordworking. Frid brushed aside the “English method” as being too demanding on beginners and advocated quick and simple bowsawing in its stead.

    1. The best method is the one you’ll use. I train people in an entirely different industry and my observation is this. No matter the method, everyone prefers the one they learned first, providing they practiced it and became proficient. Two people in different companies producing the same work will each tout their method as the only or best way to do it. But in the end, if the results are the same, does it really matter?

  6. Thank you so much for all the great pointers to better hand woodworking.
    I very much liked the variety of chisel methods with the final cut taken with the hand router.
    Great show.

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